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Allantion issue
Hello Sages
I’m having some trouble with Allantion crystallisation in a cream. I’m wanting to use it at the upper level 2%. Cream is a simple o/w, oils @ 25%, polawax, cetyl alcohol, gs/p100s, preservative. No fragrance, does have EO (Rosemary) at 0.2%.
I have tried premixing the Allantion with water and dropping in at 40deg, still crystallising. Have tried dropping in at room temp also, same issue. I’m using a hand held shear mixer to mix.
Am I processing this wrong? Or is there anything that can help with the crystallisation problem?Any suggestions would help.
Many thanks -
5 Replies
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Why do you think you need this high level of allantoin?
Just because 2% may be the maximum level permitted by various authorities it does not mean that lower levels are ineffective.If you need to use high levels, a micronised form is available. This is used as a dispersion in the product rather than a solution.
There are various allantoin derivatives available which may have a better solubility or improved properties which may be desirable in your formulation.
Have a look at http://www.akema.it/allantoin.htm
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@ChicoB:
You’d best drop your Allantoin content to 1.0% to 0.5% and drop it in at 55C to 50C.
Two issues with your approach … Allantoin is not very soluble, so up to 1% and you’re generally good to go, but you need to add it in at 55C to get it to go into solution.
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Thank you both. @johnb I am interested with the Allantion at this level to test if it will benefit wound healing, but as you say it could be as effective at lower levels. I will look at Akema.
@MarkBroussard super advice, I will try this tomorrow.
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Betaine in the water phase may also help. Although incorporation at the rate tested in the link below is impractical.
http://www.in-cosmetics.com/__novadocuments/34292?v=635114705399500000
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The presence of urea in solution will greatly increase the solubility of allantoin. You will just have to deal with urea in your formula then, not the worst thing for a skin-care product, eh?
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