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AHA/BHA Serum
Hi All,
Seeking help and advise on a stability issue we are facing in making a AHA/BHA facial serum.
The formulation:Glycolic acid - 3%
Lactic acid - 5%
Citric acid - 1%
Salicylic acid - 0.35%
Tranzamic acid - 3%
Aristoflex silk - 0.4%
Aristoflex HMB - 0.4%
IPM - 0.1%
Dimethicone 200 - 6 cst - 4%
Glycerin - 2.5%
Propanediol - 2%
Butylene glycol - 2%
pentalene glycol - 2%
Veriver essential oil 0.2%
This formulation separated in 4wks at 45oC.
Im seeking your advise on how best to stabilise it so it passes the 12 wk stability test at 45oC, 49C and RT.
Grateful for your help and advise.
Regards,
M
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2 Replies
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What’s the order of addition with the Aristoflex- do you add that in prior to all the acids or after? and what is the final product pH?
Your polymer is meant to interact with the hydrophobic phase but your largest portion of that is silicone, you may need to incorporate a silicone-based emulsifier. Otherwise you can try and add additional aristoflex to boost viscosity.
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Thank you so much for your advise.
We add glucolic acid and then have added both the Aritoflex silk and HMB. We then add all the propane dilol, bytylele glycol, pentalene glycol and then add the rest of the salts. We have done a batch where we have added Aritflex silk and spemax zen. We have also incorporated an emulsifier systerm of Oliviem 1000 & cetyll alcohol. These are on storage.
If you will have any recommendation on the sequence of addtion, kindly advise.
Fully appreciate and agree with your recommendation on higher level of Aritoflex silk and also silicone emulsifier- will do these.
Best regards,
M
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