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AHA/BHA peel
Hi there!
I am making a peel with 10% of Salicylic acid, 10% glycolic acid and 10% lactic acid. Having high percentage of Salicylic acid i am having problems with solvents, as it is too much to dissolve in water. I am using ethoxydiglycol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol as a main solvent. But happens that turns pink and makes little balls… Any suggestion to dissolve such amount of salicylic acid? I am using hydroxypropyl cellulose as a gelling agent. Also, which is the best pH for this kind of peels?Thanks!ajolga -
6 Replies
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Is that for home use? Cosmetic Ingredient Review usually recommends limiting the AHA’s to 10% and pH 3.5 or higher for home use products. Also, there is some Regulatory uncertainty about using Salicylic acid (OTC) with Glycolic acid. One of my clients was told this week by a reknown Regulatory expert that it was an unauthorized combination.
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Especially when dealing with something as potentially dangerous as acid peels, your question displays a very, very scary lack of knowledge. Please, please leave this kind of product to professionals - if you do something wrong with acid peels, it is possible that you could wind up with permanent scars all over your face.
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Thank you @Bobzchemist. Someone had to say it.
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With AHA’s for consumer home use products, the regulations are a minimum pH of 3.5 and, assuming you may try to sell this product, must contain the AHA Sunburn Alert language on the label.
As BobZ pointed out … what you are proposing is not a very good idea. AHA’s and BHA’s are best not mixed together. -
http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceRegulation/GuidanceDocuments/ucm090816.htm
“Based on the available information included in this report, the
CIR Expert Panel concludes that Glycolic and Lactic Acid, their common
salts and their simple esters, are safe for use in cosmetic products at
concentrations ≤10%, at final formulation pH ≥3.5, when formulated to
avoid increasing sun sensitivity or when directions for use include the
daily use of sun protection. These ingredients are safe for use in salon
products at concentrations ≤30%, at final formulation pH ≥3.0, in
products designed for brief, discontinuous use followed by thorough
rinsing from the skin, when applied by trained professionals, and when
application is accompanied by directions for the daily use of sun
protection.”
Sunburn Alert: This product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)
that may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun and particularly
the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen, wear protective clothing,
and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week
afterwards.Salicylic Acid is of course covered in an FDA OTC Monograph. As I stated a Regulatory Person (well respected) advised a client of mine that she could not combine Salicylic Acid with Glycolic Acid.
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I was not aware of any particular issues of combining AHAs and BHAs, just that the final concentration should be less than 30%. Are there other issues. And you might have more luck dissolving the salicylic acid in oil than water.
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