-
Adjusting Cleansing Water formula
Hello,
I’m new to the forums and working on a cleansing water that helps remove makeup, but doesn’t need to be rinsed off.
On my first and second try, my formula had the viscosity of a watery serum, instead of liquid. I’m not sure what I should cut, or possibly add to improve.
Any thoughts?
water 60%
propanediol
10% (replacing butylene glycol)Zingiber zerumbet
(Ginger) juice 10%Sodium cocoyl amino
acids 5.5%Glycerin
(Vegetable) and Plantago Extract 5%PEG-7 Glyceryl
Cocoate 5%Algae Extract 3%
Phenoxyethanol 1%
Ferulic acid 0.5%
(mix into heated gotu kola extract)) -
16 Replies
-
Knockout the alagae and try it again.
-
Will do. Thanks for the advice.
Follow up question. Should I maybe kick that 3% percent to the water, or maybe bulk up the glyceryl cocoate? -
PEG7 glyceryl cocoate will tend to increase the viscosity, also to me, it seems something of an overdose in the presence of 10% propanediol.
Can you define the trade name of the Sodium cocoyl amino
acids that you are using? (My aim here is to possibly suggest lowering the quantity of this item, not to change the brand). -
sodium cocoyl amino
acids - PROTEOL™ APL courtesy of Seppic. -
I think that the Proteol APL could be reduced without much effect on the performance to, say, 2.5%
This is only a guesstimate.
-
Ok, I’ve adjusted on paper. I’m going to these two a try and see what takes.
water 75%
propanediol 8%
Zingiber zerumbet
(bitter ginger) juice 6%PEG-7 Glyceryl
Cocoate 4%Glycerin
(Vegetable) and Plantago Extract 3%Sodium cocoyl amino
acids 2.5%Phenoxyethanol 1%
Ferulic acid 0.5%
&
water 70%
propanediol 8%
sodium cocoyl amino acids 6.5%
Zingiber zerumbet
(bitter ginger) juice 5%Glycerin
(Vegetable) and Plantago Extract 5%PEG-7 Glyceryl
Cocoate 4%Phenoxyethanol 1%
Ferulic acid 0.5%
Thanks for the recommendations
-
1% Phenoxyethanol for a product that isn’t rinsed might cause irritation.
-
Should I cut it down to .5%,or look into another preservative? Any suggestions?
-
I would use a combination of Phenoxyethanol/Ethylhexylglycerin or Phenoxyethanol/Capryl Glycol. The manufacturers have guidelines specifically for leave-on and rinse off applications. Honestly though, once you optimize the other qualities of your product, the only real way to ultimately assess your preservative is challenge testing.
-
Given the amount of propanediol in my formula, is it possible I’d be okay with a caprylyl glycol/ethylhexylglycerin blend?
-
You could try 0.2% Sodium Benzoate and 0.05% Potassium Sorbate and buffer down to pH 4.5 to 5.0 with Citric or Lactic Acid that should be plenty to preserve this type of product. You could also really streamline that formulation and save a lot of cost and still have a perfectly efficacious product.
-
Of course using potassium sorbate can lead to a yellowing of your product over time. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/030881468890074X
-
I think at such a low level it would be fine, I have developed many products over the years using this preservative system and never had any issues with yellowing
-
@Chemist79 - Good to know. Thanks
-
@Chemist79 agreed, I use 0.2% sodium benzoate and 0.2% potassium sorbate at a pH of 5.0 to 5.5 and have never had any problems. Probably the EDTA and humectants improve the preservative action to some extent.
-
@Chemist79 Thank you. I’ll give that a try as well, and see how it goes.
Log in to reply.