Formulators! What do you think of this curl gel formula?

Tagged: Aide à la formulation, Ajustement du pH, BeautyFormulationReview, benzoate de sodium, bouclé, boucles, Boucles définies, Boucles naturelles, cheveux bouclés, Chimiste cosmétique, CleanBeauty, CleanBeautyFormulator, Communauté des formulateurs, Contrôle des frisottis, Copolymère d'acrylates, CosmétiqueScience, Définition de Curl, Définition de Weightless, Demande de commentaires, EDTA disodique, Extrait d'Aloe Vera, Formulation basée sur INCI, Formulation cosmétique, Formulation professionnelle, Formule de gel capillaire, Formule écologique, Formule sans huile, gel bouclé, Gel hydratant, Gel NoCrunch, Gel SoftHold, glycerine, HairLab, humectants, Hydratation des cheveux bouclés, hydroxyethylcellulose, IndieHairBrand, Innovation en matière de cheveux bouclés, Innovation en matière de soins capillaires, Laissez-y du gel, LeaveInRoutine, LightHold, panthenol, phenoxyethanol, Polymère filmogène, Polyquaternium10, Produit pour cheveux bouclés, Produits pour cheveux bouclés, Routine pour cheveux bouclés, Sans huiles, Sans silicone, Soins capillaires DIY, Soins capillaires hydratants, Soins capillaires végétaliens, Soins pour cheveux bouclés, Solution anti-frisottis, sorbitol, Système de conservation

Formulating

Formulators! What do you think of this curl gel formula?

Posted by hadylhgn on July 23, 2025 at 7:08 am
Hi,
I would really appreciate your expert feedback on this gel formula I developed for curly hair (types 2C to 4A).

It is intended to be used after a leave-in cream that already contains oils, which is why this gel is completely oil-free. My goal is to provide light hold, frizz control, and hydration without a greasy or crunchy effect.

The formula uses AquaStyle SH-100 (Acrylates Copolymer) as the main styling polymer, combined with moisturizing agents like Sorbitol, Glycerin, Aloe Vera Extract, and Panthenol. The texture is adjusted with Hydroxyethylcellulose, and the preservative system includes Phenoxyethanol and Sodium Benzoate.

However, if AquaStyle SH-100 is not available, I’m considering replacing it with more accessible options like VP/VA Copolymer or neutralized Carbomer, to maintain a light film and gel structure.

I would love to hear your thoughts on:

The balance between hydration and hold

The effectiveness and compatibility of the preservative system

Whether I should add Disodium EDTA to improve preservation and formula stability

Suitable alternatives to AquaStyle SH-100 that still provide soft curl definition without build-up

The overall performance and feel of the product on curly hair

Thank you in advance for your time and insights!

Formula – Curl Defining Gel (Oil-Free, Light Hold, Moisturizing)

Phase A

Aqua (Water) – q.s. to 100% – Solvent / Base

Polyquaternium-10 – 0.3% – Film-former, light conditioning, anti-frizz

Sorbitol – 2.0% – Humectant

Glycerin – 1.0% – Moisturizing humectant

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract (10x concentrate) – 1.0% – Moisturizing, soothing

Panthenol – 1.0% – Pro-vitamin B5, shine and strength

Hydroxyethylcellulose – 0.4% – Thickener, gel texture stabilizer

Acrylates Copolymer (AquaStyle SH-100) – 4.0% – Film-forming polymer for curl definition

Phenoxyethanol – 0.6% – Preservative

Sodium Benzoate – 0.2% – Co-preservative

Parfum (Fragrance) – 0.3–0.5% – Optional, allergen-free

Citric Acid (20% solution) – q.s. to pH 5.2 – pH adjuster
- This discussion was modified 1 day, 7 hours ago by Perry44.
Onur replied 5 hours, 1 minute ago 2 Members · 4 Replies
4 Replies

Onur

Member
July 23, 2025 at 11:53 pm

You’re using various gellants that work at different environments. Pick one, I’d suggest cationic gellants like Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride in hair products. Or a non-ionic one if you need to use a quaternium resin.

That’s too much Aloe Vera, it’s a claims ingredient, so is Panthenol, lower them to 0.10%. No benefit of sorbitol here, either. It will only make the product sticky.

I’d use pqt-7 instead of pqt-10 in leave-in products but that’s a personal choice.

Preservation could be better. Try Phenoxyethanol & EHG duo.
- hadylhgn
 
 Pharmacist
 July 24, 2025 at 5:10 am
 Comme il s’agit d’un gel définissant les boucles, à la fois hydratant et fixant, spécialement conçu pour les cheveux bouclés de types 2C à 4A, je préfère utiliser du Polyquaternium-11 plutôt que du PQ-10 ou du PQ-7.
 
 Le PQ-11 offre un effet filmogène plus puissant qui favorise la tenue des boucles et le contrôle des frisottis, contrairement aux deux autres. Pour le soin,
 
 j’utilise du chlorure d’hydroxypropyltrimonium de guar, qui apporte douceur et maniabilité aux cheveux avec un faible taux d’inclusion. Cela dit, je me demande si le guar peut être remplacé par la gomme xanthane. Je comprends qu’ils n’offrent pas les mêmes bienfaits revitalisants, mais la gomme xanthane serait-elle une option viable en termes de texture et de viscosité ? 
 
 Je suis d’accord avec votre suggestion concernant l’extrait d’aloe vera et le panthénol : je vais réduire les deux à 0,1 %, car leurs bienfaits à des concentrations plus élevées sont minimes dans un gel sans rinçage et il s’agit principalement d’arguments marketing.
 
 J’ai également décidé de supprimer le sorbitol de la formule, mais ce faisant, je me demande si je dois maintenir la glycérine à 1 % ou l’augmenter à 3 % pour conserver une bonne fonction humectante, sans effet collant ni frisottis en milieu humide. 
 
 Concernant le système gélifiant, comme l’HEC est plus facilement disponible localement qu’AquaStyle SH-100, que pensez-vous de l’association des deux ? 
 
 Mon idée est d’utiliser l’HEC pour la viscosité et la texture onctueuse, tandis qu’AquaStyle SH-100 assure la filmogénicité et la tenue, avec le soutien du PQ-11. 
 
 J’aimerais connaître votre avis sur cette association.
 - This reply was modified 15 hours, 2 minutes ago by hadylhgn.
- hadylhgn
 
 Pharmacist
 July 24, 2025 at 8:55 am
 
 Since this is a curl-defining gel aimed at both hydration and hold, specifically designed for curly hair types 2C to 4A, I prefer using Polyquaternium-11 over PQ-10 or PQ-7.
 
 PQ-11 offers a stronger film-forming effect that helps with curl hold and frizz control, which the other two don’t provide as effectively.
 
 For the conditioning aspect, I’m relying on Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, which adds softness and manageability to the hair at a low inclusion rate.
 
 That said, I was wondering if Guar could be replaced with Xanthan Gum. I understand they don’t offer the same conditioning benefits, but would xanthan be a viable option in terms of texture and viscosity?
 
 I agree with your suggestion regarding Aloe Vera extract and Panthenol — I’ll reduce both to 0.1%, since their benefits at higher concentrations are minimal in a leave-in gel and they’re mainly marketing claims.
 
 I also decided to remove Sorbitol from the formula, but in doing so, I’m wondering whether I should keep Glycerin at 1% or increase it to 3% to maintain proper humectant function, without causing stickiness or frizz in humid environments.
 
 As for the gelling system, since HEC is more readily available locally than AquaStyle SH-100, what do you think about combining both?
 My idea is to use HEC for viscosity and smooth texture, while AquaStyle SH-100 provides film-forming and hold, supported by PQ-11.
 
 Would love your thoughts on this combination.
 - Onur
 
 Member
 July 24, 2025 at 3:14 pm
 
 If you like the texture of the final product, use whatever you like. No strict rules. But a few things could be adjusted to make it shine.
 
 If you think pqt-11 gives you enough holding and thickness, why use another gellant? Increase it until you like the viscosity. Not saying you can’t use two or more rheology agents but they often compete with each other and gets easily out of control. Never been a fan of Xanthan gum, I like HEC, though. You can even try PVP/PVA if you better holding strength.
 
 There’s really no need of glycerin here. It’s a wonder product to hydrate the skin and the scalp but hair strands just don’t work the same way. You don’t need to attract water to hair, that’s what makes it frizzy and chalky. Remove glycerin and sorbitol, add HEC or Guar Hydroxy and inceease the pqt-11 (it doesn’t dissolve easily, does it?) and play with the numbers until you’re happy with it.

Formulators! What do you think of this curl gel formula?

Onur

hadylhgn

hadylhgn

Onur