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2in1 Shampoo & Leave On Conditioner
Hello everyone, I’m currently working on a project to create a 2-in-1 Shampoo and Leave-In Conditioner. The formula I’m using is as follows:
Aquadest qs
EDTA 0,05%
Glycerin 2%
Sodium Benzoate 0,3%
D-Panthenol 0,5%
Alkyl Polyglicoside 0,5%
Cocamidapropyl Betaine 0,5%
Natpure Feel M-Eco 2%
Tween 80 1%
Cetrimonium Chloride 1,5%
Belsil DADM 3050 2%
PEG 12 Dimethicone 1%
CHG 0,05% 0,25%
Lactic Acid qs (pH 4.5 - 5.5)
But…. when I apply this product to the hair, the results are :
1. The hair feels sticky and not smooth at all when it’s not rinsed out.
2. When I rinse it, the results are excellent — the hair feels very light and smooth.
So, the product I’ve developed so far does not yet meet the goal of being a leave-in product, even though it already provides a great smoothing effect.
I need your help with suggestions and input on what I should do to achieve a proper leave-in product.
Thank you in advance
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7 Replies
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I would suggest looking at 2 in 1 products already in the marketplace- the technology for combining a shampoo and conditioner usually relies on conservation and dilution/deposition, which for these systems typically involves an anionic surfactant and a cationic polymer. You don’t have either- you have some nonionics, an amphoteric, and a cationic surfactant. Look into coacervation technology and what other major brands are doing.
Just for your reference, I would still call a 2 in 1 product a rinse-off, not leave on (users will always need to rinse out the shampoo, the hope is your formula is able to leave behind some conditioning agents).
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I support @evchem2 comments. Your formula looks more like a low foam shampoo. Co-washes are the closest to what you want to formulate, but keep in mind that washing your hair with a rinse-off product with good detergeny is key for a healthy scalp. I recall some TRI presentation on the topic of scalp, and the need for washing the hair/scalp regularly.
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Thank you sir for the reply & support
But, I’m asking what should I change from my formula to get a Leave-In Conditioner but it still has a cleansing effect so I still use some low concentration surfactants.
Should I increase the % of conditioning agent?
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I don’t think it’s possible to have a leave-in conditioner product that also truly cleans hair. When you say “cleansing effect” do you just want the hair to look clean or to actually have soil removed? There are a few ways surfactants remove oil/particulates, but rinsing is a critical step no matter how the soil is separated from the hair/scalp. If you don’t rinse out the hair, how else will you physically remove buildup?
Leaving too much surfactant on your hair/skin without rinsing is likely an irritation risk. If this is for anything other than personal use, check your regulations. For a leave on product in the EU, Cetrimonium Chloride use level must be <1% (https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/32590) , in the US the CIR recommends <0.25% (https://cir-reports.cir-safety.org/).
If you just want to mimic the appearance of clean hair that might be possible with the right conditioning agents, maybe some starch to absorb excess oil.
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ah… thank you sir for the insight….
okay that means I need to remove surfactants from my formula and is there any suggestion that the Leave-In conditioner I made can smooth the hair?
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My concentration is skincare, not hair, so I’m not the best resource for suggestions. Very generally, cationic polymers help reduce frizz. I’d just look at market products because I can’t advise if Polyquaternium-7 vs 10 is better for a given hair type from personal experience. There are articles and previous forum posts that would offer more insight (https://chemistscorner.com/what-is-polyquaternium/) . But some cationic surfactant and the right oils/silicones could probably also support frizz reduction and help with shine.
chemistscorner.com
What is Polyquaternium? - Chemists Corner
This is a post by Nitesh Rajput A product is considered to be a conditioner if it improves the quality of the surface to which…
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It sounds like you want to learn advanced cosmetic chemistry techniques. You should take Perrys course on Beginning Cosmetic Formulation. I would suggest you also enroll at the Institute of Personal Care Science. I have finished the program here but Belinda courses and chemistry degree program will give you the foundational skills to competently formulate from scratch for companies and always get good results.
2 in 1 products really only work for people with short hair who shampoo frequently. Compare your product to the leading brand out there. Note: most consumers love bubbles and judge effective cleaning by the bubbles, your target market may be limited.
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