• Formulating

  Request for review of Amino acid based Facial Cleansing Gel Formula

  Posted by gabrielm05 on May 12, 2025 at 6:16 pm

  Hi Everyone!

  I hope you’re all doing well! I’m an independent skincare founder currently developing a gentle, fragrance-free gel facial cleanser suitable for all skin types. I’ve been formulating on my own and would really appreciate some expert guidance to ensure I’m on the right track.

  Here’s a brief overview of the formula:

  Target:

  • Mild, effective cleanser with 8–9% total ASM
  • Amino acid–based surfactant system
  • Fragrance-free, non-stripping, suitable for sensitive skin

  Ingredients (in development):

  • Water
  • Sodium phytate
  • Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
  • Glycerin
  • Hydroxyethylcellulose
  • Disodium & Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (25% active surfactant liquid)
  • Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate (30% active surfactant liquid)
  • Gluconolactone
  • Ceramide NP (water-soluble)
  • Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
  • Niacinamide (B3)
  • Preservative: Caprylyl glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, glycerin
  • Citric acid (pH adjusted to 5.5)

  The batches I’ve created so far appear visually stable (stored sealed at room temperature), and the gel texture and pH seem good. However, I’m concerned about the natural scent — the Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate seems to be adding a slightly unpleasant odor, which is noticeable in a fragrance-free product. I also want to confirm that my formula and surfactant system are appropriate for commercial use, from both a safety and performance standpoint.

  Would any chemist be open to reviewing this formula, offering some suggestions for optimization (especially regarding odor, balance, or improvements), and potentially helping me move forward with professional testing (e.g., stability, PET, etc.)?

  Looking forward to your thoughts, and I really appreciate your time and expertise.

  gabrielm05 replied 5 hours, 17 minutes ago 2 Members · 2 Replies

  • cleanser
  • cosmetic
  • formulating
  • R&D
  • skincare
• 2 Replies

• 

  MaidenOrangeBlossom

  Member

  May 12, 2025 at 8:14 pm

  I use hydrolyzed oat for scent. Not only is it softening and great for problem skin, it smells nice.

  • 

    gabrielm05

    Member

    May 12, 2025 at 9:55 pm

    However, I’ve run into a significant issue: the natural odor of the formulation — specifically a slightly unpleasant scent from the Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate — is noticeable now that it’s fragrance-free.

    Here’s the complication:
    I’ve already ordered my packaging with labels screen printed directly on the bottles, and I’ve also published a detailed breakdown of the INCI list on my blog, so I’m locked into this exact formula from a communication and compliance standpoint. That means I can’t add any new ingredients to help mask or adjust the scent.

    Given this constraint, I’m unsure how to proceed. Is there any way to reduce or neutralize the odor using formulation techniques that don’t require declaring additional ingredients? Or could minor adjustments to the surfactant ratios or process help soften the smell without compromising the formula’s performance?

    • This reply was modified 5 hours, 16 minutes ago by  gabrielm05.

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