Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Sodium PCA in serum

  • Sodium PCA in serum

    Posted by Joanna_Nguyen on November 12, 2024 at 8:07 pm

    I quite like sodium PCA, however I can’t handle it in my serum, since it contains 2.5%.

    I know that such high levels of salt can break down the polymer bonds, usually they stop below 0.2%. But I refer to this product, I guess Na PCA will be around 0.5-1% (maybe):

    AQUA (WATER), GLYCERIN, NIACINAMIDE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, PANTHENOL, UROLITHIN A, SACCHARIDE ISOMERATE, CAFFEINE, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN, HYDROXYACETOPHENONE, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, XANTHAN GUM, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, TREHALOSE, SODIUM PCA, CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT, HYDROLYZED OPUNTIA FICUS-INDICA FLOWER EXTRACT, ALCOHOL, ERYTHRITOL, PHYTIC ACID, SODIUM LACTATE, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, CHONDRUS CRISPUS (CARRAGEENAN), PENTYLENE GLYCOL, CITRIC ACID, CARBOMER, COCO-GLUCOSIDE, SODIUM HYALURONATE, BENZOIC ACID, SODIUM CITRATE, SORBIC ACID, PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1, PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7, NICOTIANA BENTHAMIANA HEXAPEPTIDE-40 SH-POLYPEPTIDE-47

    Are there any emulsifiers and thickeners that are compatible with that amount of salt.

    jemolian replied 2 hours, 7 minutes ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    November 12, 2024 at 10:07 pm

    Clearly the NaPCA is below the 1% line….hence it could easily be .01% and in for just the claim.

    Over the years…I have NOT found the value of NaPCA, and when I confer with my peers, they tend to agree with me. (Beyond good claim value…. since it is part of NMF.)

    The polymeric is Aristoflex AVC, which is probably one of the most hyper-sensitive polymerics on the market…. so I would assume the inclusion of NaPCA is very very low.

    BTW…. you can buy PCA without the Na …. just saying. 😉

    Aloha

    Just for fun…. make a slurry of Aristoflex AVC, and water….. add drops of NaPCA while stirring….till it loses viscosity. I think it will shock at how quickly the steric hinderance let’s go! 😆

    • This reply was modified 6 hours, 9 minutes ago by  Graillotion.
    • Joanna_Nguyen

      Member
      November 12, 2024 at 10:11 pm

      I like it because it gives good moisture without being sticky, sadly I guess I’ve to leave it out of the formula. Thanks so much

  • Graillotion

    Member
    November 12, 2024 at 10:13 pm

    I just saw they also had Sodium lactate as well…. which will break a polymeric in a heartbeat as well.

    Not sure what level company this is…. but I see beginners destroy their polymeric networks all the time…. without ever realizing it (never test against their ingredient panel). So, if they have a low grade chemist….they might not even realize their polymerics is doing nothing. Sometimes we give people more credit for intellect, then they actually have. 😆

    • Joanna_Nguyen

      Member
      November 12, 2024 at 10:20 pm

      I tried sodium lactate, and it was really bad for my system, as was sodium PCA, I know that. I just have some hope when I put salt in this system🤣 and I’ll give them up without any regrets

  • jemolian

    Member
    November 13, 2024 at 2:10 am

    You can follow the product and use Xanthan Gum, if not other thickeners like Sclerotium Gum should also work but would more more expensive.

    The issue would be the ingredients that contain sodium, the Saccharide Isomerate might contain Sodium Citrate as an additive as well, so it’s something to take note if you are adding that.

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