• Formulating

  W/O PEG-free & silicone-free emulsifiers suggestions

  Posted by LabGuy on October 4, 2024 at 6:36 am

  Hi all,

  Lately I’ve been working on a lot of projects (basically sunscreens and makeup) that has to be silicone-free and PEG-free. So, basically, I can only work with polyglycerinated emulsifiers. However, it’s been hard to stabilize this emulsions… See, I don’t rely only on the emulsifiers - I use hectorites, waxes, water phase gums. Yet, separation it’s occuring after a few days at 45ºC. I must add that some of this formulas have a low water phase (lower than 20%). I’m just trying to see if my fellow chemists know any robust PEG-free & silicone free emulsifier 🙂

  Below are some that I tried:

  - Polyaquol OS2 (Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate).

  - Emulium Illustro (Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate).

  - Isolan 17 MB (Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate (and) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate).

  - Isolan GI 34 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate).

  - Lameform TGI (Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate).

  - Dehymuls PGPH (Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate).

  Look forward to hear from you!

  Kind regards 🙂

  ngarayeva001 replied 2 months, 1 week ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
• 2 Replies

• 

  chemicalmatt

  Member

  October 4, 2024 at 1:03 pm

  I am quite fond of PEFA (polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids) so I find this work commendable. I recommend using a combination of Dehymuls PGPH and Isolan GI 34 for the sweet spot of w/o emulsification. As for stability, be advised that virtually ALL invert emulsion are intrinsically unstable and will display some separation over time unless there is a rheology stabilizer in place for that continuous phase. A high internal water phase helps also, so you may not have any success here. I have w/Si and w/o samples I made 5 - 8 years ago and they are mainly intact but not 100%. I don’t know what oils you are using but those hectorite Bentone Gel mineral stabilizers are the safe bet. Have you tried their Bentone LUXE WO? That is an all-in-one blend of PEFA with hectorite stabilizer. Check it out.

  • This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by  chemicalmatt.
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  ngarayeva001

  Member

  October 7, 2024 at 1:09 pm

  I found illustro very reliable, but you definitely need higher water phase. I use it for making concealers with high pigment load.

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