• Formulating

  Formula doesn’t work properly. Product unstable. Please help!

  Posted by art_formula on June 7, 2024 at 9:12 am

  Recipe (for 1000 g):

  1. Distilled water (Aqua): 400 g
  2. Glycerin (Glycerin): 50 g
  3. Stearic Acid (Stearic Acid): 100 g
  4. Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Hydrogenated Castor Oil): 50 g
  5. Cyclomethicone (Cyclomethicone): 50 g
  6. Microcrystalline Wax (Microcrystalline Wax): 100 g
  7. Cyclotetrasiloxane (Cyclotetrasiloxane): 50 g
  8. Candelilla Wax (Candelilla Cera): 50 g
  9. VP/VA Copolymer (VP/VA Copolymer): 50 g
  10. PVP (PVP): 20 g
  11. Polyacrylamide (Polyacrylamide): 20 g
  12. C13-14 Isoparaffin (C13-14 Isoparaffin): 20 g
  13. Laureth-7 (Laureth-7): 10 g
  14. Phenoxyethanol (Phenoxyethanol): 5 g
  15. Caprylyl Glycol (Caprylyl Glycol): 5 g
  16. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate): 5 g
  17. Sodium Hydroxide (Sodium Hydroxide): 5 g
  18. Tetrasodium EDTA (Tetrasodium EDTA): 1 g
  19. Fragrance (Parfum/Aroma): up to 5 g, as desired
  20. Caramel (Caramel): for color, as desired

  Technological Process:

  1. Preparation of Components:

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  2. Measure all ingredients in the required proportions.
  3. Separate the components into the aqueous phase and the oil phase.
  4. Aqueous Phase:

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  5. Place distilled water, glycerin, and tetrasodium EDTA in a separate container and heat to 70°C.
  6. Oil Phase:

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  7. In another container, melt the stearic acid, hydrogenated castor oil, microcrystalline wax, candelilla wax, cyclomethicone, and cyclotetrasiloxane until completely melted at 70°C.
  8. Mixing Phases:

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  9. Slowly pour the aqueous phase into the oil phase, constantly stirring to ensure even mixing of the components.
  10. Continue stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
  11. Adding Active Ingredients:

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  12. Add the VP/VA copolymer, PVP, polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, and Laureth-7 to the mixture, stirring thoroughly until completely dissolved.
  13. Add phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol, stirring thoroughly.
  14. Add sodium stearoyl glutamate and stir again.
  15. Add sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH.
  16. Cooling and Fragrance:

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  17. Cool the mixture to below 40°C.
  18. Add fragrance and caramel for color, stirring thoroughly.
  19. Packaging:

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  20. Pour the finished pomade into clean, sterilized jars or tubes.
  21. Seal with lids and let cool completely and solidify.
  22. Quality Control:

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  23. Conduct a visual inspection of the finished product.
  24. Check the texture and smell.
  25. Ensure the product meets consistency and appearance requirements.

  ketchito replied 5 months, 3 weeks ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
• 1 Reply

• 

  ketchito

  Member

  June 8, 2024 at 6:42 am

  I assume your issue is phase separation. What’s your final pH? That little sodium hydroxido won’t be enough to neutralize your Stearic acid, so you won’t have enough emulsifier. Also, Stearic acid is not the best emulsifier, especially to work with such waxed, even with the help of your sodium lauroyl glutamate. Either change your Stearic acid for something like PEG-100 stearate (and) Glyceryl stearate, or add the needed amount of sodium hydroxide to properly neutralize your stearic, and replace part of your waxes by cetearyl alcohol. Also, Cyclotetrasiloxane is already banned.

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