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FOAMING SHAVING GEL (Like Gillette)
Dear Friends & Formulators,
I am new to the field of surfactants. I have successfully developed a non-foaming shaving gel that is a hit in the market. However, my customers are now demanding Foaming - shaving gel that does exactly what it’s supposed to do, make your beard soft so that it can be shaved off. There’s two things to keep in mind - the product should be affordable & it should be a crystal clear gel.
I started off with a formula i was comfortable with
D.M Water - Q.S
Ultrez 20 - 1.2%
EDTA - 0.2%
Aloe Vera Extract- 1%
SLES - 12.5%
GLYCERINE - 3%
Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerine - 0.5% (Preservative)
CAPB - 2.5%
Polysorbate 20 - 0.45%
PH - 6.5
While theoretically this formula seems like an affordable option that can guarantee transparent gel, practically it is bad. The whole thing turns whitish and a clear gel is impossible. Moreover, it doesn’t foam as much either. If anybody here has a decent Idea on how to get clear foaming shaving gels, i’d be delighted to help you with your Color cosmetics challenges. Thank you.
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3 Replies
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Gillete Shaving Gel has neutralized fatty acids as surfactants. In fact, part of those fatty acids remain no neutralized, to give a more stable and creamy latter.
Your system is quite different, but if you choose to mantain it, I’d decrease the carbopol since it might be delaying your flash soam. Rather, I’d increase your CAPB to get a gel-like phase due to the SLS-CAPB micellar entanglements. Also, remove or drastically reduce your glycerin since it can impair your foam.
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As I usually do I agree with @ketchito : revise the ratio of ampho to anionic closer to 1:1 solid state and as I so very often shout into the formulator wilderness DO NOT PUT GLYCERIN INTO FOAMING/CLEANSING PRODUCTS!! Kills foam, viscosity, then goes right down the sewer. You are also guilty of addiction to Ultrez, and your surfactants are winning that battle. Switch to acrylates copolymer like Synthalen W600 and you’ll see a clear gel - that is once you’ve replaced that preservative that is giving you all the opacity.
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As said at outset, I am a beginner in surfactant chemistry. I’m immensely obliged by knowledge Gurus like @ketchito & @chemicalmatt for your guidance & valuable suggestions. I shall implement all suggestions given here in Toto and shall come back to you with outcomes. Lucky to have formulators like you around. Thank you !
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