Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Shampoo Formula Help

  • Shampoo Formula Help

    Posted by Stell on January 11, 2024 at 11:52 am

    Hi everyone! Looking for some help with formulating a shampoo. Criteria is it needs to be PEG-free, silicone free, sulfate free, etc. We had a formula that was working pretty well but it started to separate.

    Aloe Vera Juice (Water with 200x Aloe powder added to make 1x Aloe juice) - 55%

    Active blend (Salicylic Acid, Biotin, Panthenol, Peptides) - <1%

    Norfox DF3 Clear - 22%

    Cocamidopropyl Betaine - 7.5%

    Polysorbate 20 - 2%

    Poly SugaMulse D9 - 2%

    Essential Oil Blend - <1%

    Extract Blend - <1%

    Mica - 0.35%

    Phenoxyethanol - 1%

    Citric Acid - to pH 5-6

    Glycerin - 3%

    Carboxymethyl Cellulose - 1.5%

    Zemea - 2%

    Xanthan Gum - 0.3%

    I just did a trial where I swapped the Xanthan Gum for Hydroxyethylcellulose but for some reason the HEC is not swelling and the shampoo just feels grainy. Any ideas on why that is and what I should do differently?

    ketchito replied 10 months, 2 weeks ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Camel

    Member
    January 11, 2024 at 2:43 pm

    What is your procedure for incorporating the hydroxyethylcellulose?

    • Stell

      Member
      January 11, 2024 at 2:54 pm

      I was premixing it with the zemea to create a slurry, then adding it in. I did this as the last step in the procedure.

      • Camel

        Member
        January 11, 2024 at 3:19 pm

        It’s possible that the HEC did not have enough time to fully hydrate, and if the the pH or temperature were too high when added, it may have caused lumping.

        I don’t think you need to create a slurry to incorporate HEC in your formula. You can add it slowly to room temperature water under agitation before adding anything else. Wait for it to fully hydrate and then proceed.

  • ketchito

    Member
    January 11, 2024 at 10:23 pm

    I agree with @camel. Also, to help speed up hydration, you could add some base (like sodium hydroxide) after mixing HEC for a while.

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