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Help formulating a cleansing conditioner
Hi guys,
I’d like to formulate a cleansing conditioner to use on the days I don’t want to use a shampoo. My hair is curly, dry and frizzy and my scalp is dry. I tend to wash my hair with shampoo 2-3 times a week, but I’d like to reduce the shampooing to 1-2 times a week and once or twice a week use a cowash. I’d really like some help with the formula, please. I thought of doing it this way, but feel free to give your input:
Batch: 50g
Water 81.86%
Glycerin 1%
Cationic guar gum 0.14%
Glyceryl oleate & coco glucoside 2%
BTMS-80 2.5%
Brassica Alcohol 2%
Coco betaine 9%
Fragrance 0.5%
Microcare DB 1%
I’m not a big fan of using silicones, the closest I’d use as a “silicone” alternative is Coco-Caprylate, but I didn’t include an emollient in the formula as I didn’t want to complicate it. I thought of including Cationic guar gum for the conditioning effect instead of polyquat 7 and the glycerin is just to hydrate it as I know it will be washed away. I also prefer using Brassica alcohol over other fatty Alcohols, because I think my hair prefers it. In addition, I wanted to include coco betaine and some of the coco glucoside in the glyceryl oleate to make the conditioner a better cleanser but without being drying instead of just relying on the BTMS alone. What do you guys think of the formula? Does it need tweaking?
I’m also wondering, would having one surfactant (coco betaine) be harsher on my scalp/hair? The ASM is 1.55% as I wasn’t sure what the ASM range should be for a cowash.
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4 Replies
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I’d remove glycerin since it’ll kill the little forma you’ll have. Also, you have more than enough hydration from water, what you need to do is restore hair’s hydrophobicity. Also, your balance of methosulfate and fatty alcohol is a bit off. I’d use something like BTMS:FFAA 1:3 (as total active matter). That’ll make a more robust emulsion. I always had bad times using a cationic polymer in these type of emulsions, so check for phase separation in the oven. And also, manufacturing method is key (it’s not the same adding CAPB in the cool down process than at the start.
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So you think I don’t need a cationic polymer here or glycerin? If removing glycerin, how would I hydrate the cationic guar gum. Unless I use propanediol? Also can you please elaborate on the BTMS:Brassica alcohol ratio. I’m not good at math, so if I’m using 2.5% BTMS, how much Brassica alcohol would I need?
As to CAPB, do you recommend adding it in the water phase not the cool down phase?
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That is a pretty weak preservative system - not much Gram neg protection.
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You can disperse the guar HPTC in water and then add citric acid to speed up hydration. Glycerin doesn’t hydrate guar HPTC but helps disperse it.
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