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Working with Palm Free BTMS-80
I’m planning on formulating a hair conditioner, a deep conditioner and a leave-in conditioner for my hair.
I have a curly, dry and frizzy hair. It’s currently summer where I live, so the humidity ranges between 60-80%. I’ve never used BTMS before (have used Olivem-1000), so I thought of buying one and trialing it. I think my hair doesn’t like cetyl alcohol and Cetearyl Alcohol. It responds better to Brassica alcohol, so I thought of buying a plam free BTMS. However, this one has 80% BTMS and 17% IPA. I’m worried if the IPA will dry my hair out or would the IPA evaporate during the heating phase?
Have you guys used a plam free BTMS before? I’d love some input
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7 Replies
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@HeathFor
I have never worked with BTMS-80 before, so I am unable to speak about it. However, if you are simply looking for a palm-free alternative to BTMS, you may consider CosmeGreen ES1822+ with the INCI: Arachidyl/Behenyl Betainate Esylate (and) Arachidyl/Behenyl Alcohol.
It is available from Valerie at Simply Ingredients. I have made a few rinse-off conditioners with this ingredient in the past and was happy with their performance. Keep in mind you will also need to have lactic acid and sodium lactate on hand to work with it (there are instructions on the linked page).
simply-ingredients.com
Create lightweight, conditioning emulsions for hair! This 100% bio-based, cationic conditioner has superior smoothing, conditioning and detangling benefits. It can be used as a replacement or alternative to Behentrimonium Chloride (BTMC) or Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS)—perfect for those looking for palm … Continue reading
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I have worked with Montanov 202 once, but the reason why I wanted to try BTMS is because of its cationic conditioning effect on the hair. I have a frizzy hair, so I’m looking for something that detangles, anti-static and makes my hair feel soft when dry as well.
I’m not that familiar with Montanov 202 as I’ve only used it once, but what sort of conditioning does it provide?
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Sorry just realized that Montanov 202 is somewhat different to the one you recommend it. I just looked online and I can’t find a local supplier that would sell it and I live in NZ.
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ES1822+ is actually a cationic conditioning emulsifier just like BTMS, except it is palm-free. I know that Simply Ingredients ships internationally through their shop on Etsy, and you can also email them for help finding an ingredient they carry at a retailer that is local to you.
You could also experiment with the BTMS-80. I don’t think the isopropyl alcohol will have a negative effect on your hair. If you use it at 2.5%, you will have 2% active BTMS and only 0.5% isopropyl alcohol (which is likely evaporated during the heating process anyway).
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Try contacting AS Harrison in Auckland as they are the agents for Inolex who have a number of similar conditioning agents.
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@Camel thanks so much for the help!<div>
Just a quick question because I’m not that familiar with BTMS. The supplier recommends using 1/4 of BTMS-80 for whatever % of BTMS-25.l a formula calls for. My question is at what level is BTMS-25 or any other BTMS is affective at producing the effect of anti-frizz and smooth feel? Is 2.5% of BTMS-80 is too much or is it a good amount to trial?
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I think 2% active BTMS would be a good starting point for a rinse-off conditioner, which would require 2.5% BTMS-80 in weight. Keep in mind, I’m not a professional, but I do think this is a reasonable amount to start with, especially for dry, curly hair.
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