Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Preserving color intensity in a black pressed powder eyeshadow

  • Preserving color intensity in a black pressed powder eyeshadow

    Posted by Mokutou on December 1, 2023 at 10:08 am

    Hello! I’m a hobbyist that’s been tinkering with making pressed powder eyeshadows for my own personal use, and normally I’ve been able to either solve or work around my various formula problems, except this one. I’ve been trying to make a matte black pressed shadow, and despite all of my attempts and formula tweaks, I have yet to get a nice black product. The closest I get is a very deep gray, or “faded black tshirt” black. My most successful formula is as follows:

    - 50% Binder mix

    • 15% talc

    • 11% Silica Microspheres

    • 11% Lauroyl Lysine treated serecite

    • 3% Zinc Stearate

    • 3% Boron Nitride

    • 3% Kaolin Clay

    - 46% Black Iron Oxide

    - 4% Liquid binder

    • 2.5% Fractionated Coconut Oil

    • 1% 99% Isopropyl Alcohol

    • 0.5% Cap-5 preservative


    The dry ingredients are ground together in a mortar and pestle until homogeneous, then the liquid is added and further ground together. Usually the color develops further during the grinding process, there are no white flecks, no streaking on skin or paper, but I still fall short of a shade that could accurately be called “black.” I’m stumped. Any tips?


    Mokutou replied 1 year ago 1 Member · 0 Replies
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