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W/O MAKE UP FOUNDATION PROBLEMS WITH STABILITY
Hi, novel formulator here!
I am currently involved in a liquid W/O foundation project where we are looking for a fluid texture with matte finish intended for acne-prone skin, and preferably without silicones.
My current problem is I do not have a micronizer in the lab and I am being asked for a formula that passes without separation (not even minimal) a centrifuge test of 4000 rpm for 2 hours. The client wants the formula to pass the Lumisizer test.
Our best bet has been a formula containing sepimax zen in the water phase and Easynov + isolan gi 34 on the oil phase, but it still gets a little separation…
I have been searching and observing similar formulas available at the drugstore and I was surprised to find that most of them are already separated in store. So I am starting to think this might be a usual phenomenon?
I would really appreciate it if someone could give me some advice on stability testing and formulation of this kind of products.
Thank you!
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2 Replies
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Not a color cosmetic chemist but here are some ideas:
-Can you find some commercial benchmark products and subject them to the lumisizer test alongside your formulations? Maybe some selected by the client and others from large brands in the category (ex Clinique, Fenty, Maybelline, Covergirl in the US) to see if they also hold up under the same conditions. If nothing passes that test… w/o are notoriously hard to stabilize, I don’t know if that kind of test is common for these kind of products.
- Is w/o necessary or can you make something anhydrous?
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you can although try to add some bentonite it will help you with the stabilisation of Droplets in your formulation. You can ask suppliers like Emementis Home Page | Elementis Global for the right one for your kind of formulation and how much you should try.
Maybe you already have done something like that it would help to see a general inci list of the ingredients you are using to see what you are already doing to optimize stability.
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