Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair How can I improve my hair conditioner for humid conditions?

  • How can I improve my hair conditioner for humid conditions?

    Posted by kannes on February 28, 2023 at 2:05 pm

    Hi,

    I’ve been working on a solid hair conditioner bar this winter and I finally got the formula where I wanted it to be. My hair had been LOVING it and was beautifully shiny, bouncy, and silky. Then it got humid this week for the first time since I’ve started formulating and hair is now a little frizzy/poofy and not very silky when outdoors…the texture feels a little bit rough now.

    I’ve got silicones in the formula so I thought that would’ve helped prevent moisture from getting in the hair to cause this frizz. Do y’all have any advice on what I can do to improve this formula for humid conditions? Any tips much appreciated. Thank you!

    Cetyl Alcohol 17.8%

    Jeequat NDCS 52% (Cetyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Sorbitan Laurate)

    BTMS 50 14%

    Glyceryl Oleate 2%

    Surfpro Helia 2% (Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides (and) Lauryl Lactyl Lactate)

    Clearhance C 1.2% (Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride)

    Polyquaterium 7 3%

    Dimethicone 350 2%

    Bis-aminyl dimethicone 2%

    Hydrolyzed quinoa protein 1.8%

    Euxyl K703 1% (Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid)

    Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate .2%

    Fragrance .7%

    Colorant .3% (Titanium dioxide & iron oxide)

    Zara replied 1 year, 7 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    March 1, 2023 at 10:37 am

    This is a tough one here. You were smart to include the silicones and that should fend off any humidity affects. I can only point to that cassia polyquat. That is likely hygroscopic in solid state. On the other hand, maybe all the cationic salts here are hygroscopic in solid state? Would adding more dimethicone help?

  • ketchito

    Member
    March 1, 2023 at 8:51 pm

    Two theories from my side: 1) the change of weather made you switch the temperature of your shower (since you’re using a bar, the hotter the environment, the more deposition you’ll have as long as you’re a bit above the bar’s melting point), 2) before it got humid, you didn’t require any special benefit from your bar (conditioning bars don’t perform as good as regular emulsions), but humidity makes hair a bit messy, and that’s when you notice a conditioning bar is not good enough.

  • kannes

    Member
    May 2, 2023 at 11:12 pm

    Thanks for the input! I added a little more dimethicone and it took care of it. Only other issue I’m having is a little bit of static. I’ve been experimenting with ph between 5.5 and 3.9. The lower ph was a little bit better with static but still had some that was a little annoying. Anyone have any ideas that could help? Appreciate it!

  • Zara

    Member
    May 5, 2023 at 3:10 am

    Normally a hair conditioner would take care of static unless the hair is porous/damaged or it is so fine that has no room to hold the hydration in the hair cuticle. I have very fine hair and I have not been able to make a conditioner to solve this problem, so I apply a leave on hydrating product which would take care of it.

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