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Comparation of two cationic guar types
I use Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride at 0.2% in Shampoo. It has viscosity of 3000 and Nitrogen 1.4%.
JAGUAR® C-17 which is claimed to be the most conditioning cationic guar has viscosity of 3000 and Nitrogen 1.8%. it is ~30% more Nitrogen than the one i am using.
Questions
1. Does more Nitrogen mean more cationic guar will remain in hair from Shampoo if everything else is the same in the formula?
2. If i use 30% more of my cationic guar (0.26%), will it be the same as 0.2% JAGUAR® C-17?
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5 Replies
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Since N in Guar HPTC is always in a cationic state, more N content in Guar HPTC would mean higher caionic charge and more deposition. Now, this is just solutions of water and cationic guar, but the situation is more complex when there’s an anionic surfactant (coacervates).
To the second question, using higher percentage of the lower N cationic guar to match the higher N cationic guar could be expected to work, as long as the molecular weight of both is the same (since solution viscosity in both is around 3K, that might be the case).
One thing to keep in mind is removal, since high N cationic guar will be hrder to remove from hair than low N cationic guar which, if the shampoo is not properly formulated, could lead to overconditioning (build-up).
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Thanks a lot.
Today i made a sample batch with 0.26% cationic guar and it was fantastic even after 10 repeated use. In my previous batch of cationic guar anything above 0.2% was making hair undesirable and heavy.
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Hi @ketchito , sorry to disturb this topic but could you tell me more about these coacervates? You see, I’m a graduate biologist and the only ones I know are… well… those ones who probably gave rise to life a hundred millions billions trillions years ago (literally the “primitive beings”). I tried to do a quick search on coacervates in cleansing systems but (what a shame) I think I’m more confused than I was before…
I’ve seen several members commenting on it occasionally and it caught my attention, sorry ????
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Hi! No worries. I’d avise you to check two excelent books for the matter: 1) “Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications” (look up for chapter 13, “The use of polymers in cosmetic products”), and 2) Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care (chapter 6, “Synthetic polymers in cosmetics”). If you have any specific questions about the topic, you’re always welcome to pos it. Happy reading! 🙂
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Thanks for the direction you gave me! I’ll do my reading as soon as possible (:
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