Home › Cosmetic Science Talk › Formulating › Do water soluble fragrances typically last as long as oil soluble ones?
-
Do water soluble fragrances typically last as long as oil soluble ones?
Posted by GeorgeBenson on January 19, 2023 at 3:22 amCame across a water soluble one that I actually like, from Wellington. Never used one before, I always use oil fragrances…or occasionally hydrosols. Just wondering if I can expect it to be as stable in a formula as an oil soluble fragrance or if they dissipate over time?
RedCoast replied 1 year, 10 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies -
6 Replies
-
Way off topic @GeorgeBenson, but since I am always chasing the fragrance thing…. What was the scent you liked from them? Just purchased about 20 fragrances….some from them.
Was trying to find a butter-rum/pineapple that I could mix together….but don’t think I’ll get it to work…with what I got.
What nut would want a butter-rum pineapple body butter?
@RedCoast might chime in?
-
No, they don’t.
1. Water-soluble FOs are mostly top notes, which are volatile and therefore short-lived. I’m into making the more traditional perfumes for this very reason.
2. Many longer-lasting natural perfume materials are trickier to handle, especially if you try to put them in an emulsion. Many popular fragrant materials and isolates aren’t water or oil-soluble; rather, they’re alcohol soluble, and can require special warming instructions because they’re so thick and pasty. This is why you’ll find excellent fragrant materials like beeswax absolute and mimosa absolute in alcohol-based perfumes. Furthermore, the IFRA recommends limitations on fragrant materials in cosmetics and other goods.
3. Water-soluble FOs have solvents like polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ether, and other organic solvents. This is the only way to get some raw materials, like nerol (a fresh rose scent), to be in a “water-soluble” FO. Such raw materials are in smaller amounts, which means the FO won’t smell as strong.
4. Polysorbates may be required to stabilize the emulsion. Now, admittedly, water-soluble FOs isn’t my area of expertise; I’ve mainly done perfume oils, alcohols, and home products. However, from what I’ve understood from the literature, more stable scented water-based fragrance products require specific forms of microencapsulation.
If you add water-soluble FOs, you will need to do plenty of knock-outs.
-
@Graillotion The scent i like is called jasmine water, but “like” is a bit of an overstatement here. I am using it as part of a blend I am making with a few other scents. It does its job in that blend pretty well, but on its own I would probably never use it.
Scent is such a subjective thing… so what i like you might not like…. I have probably ordered half of what wellington carries and more from other places. There are so few that I actually love. I usually end up blending them.
-
I just looked through several popular facial toners containing essential oils. They’re primarily using citrus oils, limonene, and linalool. It they’re using “natural” ingredients like Sepiclear G7 (heptyl glucoside), another co-emulsifier like glyceryl caprylate, and propanediol.
@GeorgeBenson Do you have any other FO suppliers? Are you limited?
-
Well I used to get fragrances from a couple other places but after I discovered wellington I realized that it seems my other suppliers were just getting their oils from them too.
Am i limited in what sense? I could always use a bigger selection of fragrance oils, if that’s what you mean. -
Suppliers won’t ship certain FOs if you live on an island. Or they’ll charge you an arm and a leg for your order.
Wholesale Supplies Plus has a great selection of FOs. However, they don’t have very many water-soluble ones.
Log in to reply.