-
Formulating a face scrub
Hi everyone. I want to formulate a face scrub that removes dead skin or the superficial layer of skin that happens on the skin.i want it to slough away dead skin and also penetrate deep into the skin to treat it and prevent it from fine lines and wrinkles. Is it possible to have a svrub that promote blodd flow an entire day meaning for an entire day i feel a rush of blood inside my face so its not noticeable but whats noticeable would be the glow and the new skin face.
So i was thinking certain active ingredients and would like your opinions on itrice powder
quartz powder
brown sugar
(its either or not all of them mixed)then id add a chemical exfoliant for people who want an effective exf that complements the physical exf.
Do we need to put an emulsifier in a face scrub? Will it role prevent the physical ingredients from seperating from the oils? Also how many oils can be a face scrub if we want results cus i know too oily might not give results but too dry is too abrasive for the face.
What do you think? I know i will know more once i survey again the audience ad the best way to innovate is to ask the audience.
By the way in a survey what questons can be asked to know in the very first place what type of skincare product is wished/needed/demanded? Lets say that by analysing survey answers i see that eevryone wants a face scrub; what would be the question to ask to get that answer?
Thank you
-
6 Replies
-
Hi Ghita,
I would recommend to check market and find what you actually want.
There are many types of exfoliating products. From gels (abrasive particles suspended in gelled phase, AHA/BHA gels) to emulsions (-//-).Also many types of physical exfoliant - as you mentioned. Some of them will perform better on face, some of them on body. Depending on how “strong” you want the exfoliation to be. (I would not suggest sugar).
By removing some of the dead layer you will get some glow.
AHA (e.g. Lactic acid) could also help with some anti-aging situation (In leave on product) …
Chemical exfoliants can be also milder than physical ones.You usually want to keep the lipid portion lower as if it’s a wash off product you want to remove “stuff” from you skin, not to add.
So yeah, again, check the market, see what is available, think about your product and formulate.
-
Thank you @Paprik. The idea to want to develop a face scrub came from my own personal experience.I have dry skin and sometimes my mom would say maybe you need a face exfoliation;your skin looks dry.I go in front of the mirror and look at my face and it looks luster and i would see some very thin dry skin on the forehead and the chin.I told myself okay lets make a homemade face scrub.I googled what are the best ingredients to put in a face scrub for dry skin that also looks for a radiant glow.I found brown sugar; rice powder; oat powder; almond powder; aha and bha and pha for the most senstive skins, and what kind of oils i can incorporate that sooth and nourish the skin.
so i wanted something that remove the dead skin and also something that will slow down the appearence of fine lines ( im saying slow down not prevent cus fine lines we all know are a natural process) so i said just like im unhappy with my skin because of the dead skin im sure others are as well and are looking for ways to slow down fine lines on their skins.When you mentioned that i want to keep the lipid portion lower do you mean that i shouldnt include many oils in the formulation? if that is what you mean i agree but then if the amount of oil is low the scrub will be too abrasive wont it?
Also like i said i intend to have both a physical and chemical face exfoliant. -
The “abrasiveness” of the product won’t change if you reduce the lipid portion. It depends on the % input and type of the scrubbing particles.
You can make something like this -
1) Gel - carbomer [or other gelling agent (must be a really good stabiliser)]+ scrub
2) Emulsion - A good rheology modifier/stabiliser + non-ionic emulsifier - 2% - ish lipid (cheap one or 0.01% of a “good” one for marketing)
3) Foaming emulsion - similar to above plus some surfactant (beware it can thin out the emulsion so you might need more emulsifier/fatty alcohol).You will need to experience and feel all the physical exfoliants yourself - some of them are very mild some of them are more “aggressive”.
You can use combination - I use Bamboo facial scrub at 3% (ish - from top of my head) and 0.5% or so of Apricot shell flour scrub just to give the product some “look”.
Or chemical exfoliation -
Check your regulatory limits for AHA’s, get the right pH and start with glycolic or lactic acid. Either wash off or leave on product.Mainly, if you have really dry skin, I would focus on a good moisturiser and facial oil. You could combine AHA serum with moisturiser and facial oil for perfect trio
And exfoliate only 1 - 2 times week. -
Ghita37 said:Thank you @Paprik. The idea to want to develop a face scrub came from my own personal experience.I have dry skin and sometimes my mom would say maybe you need a face exfoliation;your skin looks dry.I go in front of the mirror and look at my face and it looks luster and i would see some very thin dry skin on the forehead and the chin.I told myself okay lets make a homemade face scrub.I googled what are the best ingredients to put in a face scrub for dry skin that also looks for a radiant glow.I found brown sugar; rice powder; oat powder; almond powder; aha and bha and pha for the most senstive skins, and what kind of oils i can incorporate that sooth and nourish the skin.
so i wanted something that remove the dead skin and also something that will slow down the appearence of fine lines ( im saying slow down not prevent cus fine lines we all know are a natural process) so i said just like im unhappy with my skin because of the dead skin im sure others are as well and are looking for ways to slow down fine lines on their skins.When you mentioned that i want to keep the lipid portion lower do you mean that i shouldnt include many oils in the formulation? if that is what you mean i agree but then if the amount of oil is low the scrub will be too abrasive wont it?
Also like i said i intend to have both a physical and chemical face exfoliant.A friend of mine had a similar face condition, Although I second @Paprik on using a good serum based moisturizer, I suggest you make a Cream based exfoliate product. I can give you a basic formula to start experimenting with -
Water Phase
D.M Water QS
Glycerin 2
Xanthan 0.3Oil Phase
CCTG 5
Glyceryl stearate & PEG 100 - 4.5
Stearic Acid - 1.5
Cetyl Alcohol - 1.8
Pummice/ Apricot shell powder - 0.5AHA - 0.3
Sodium Bicarbonate - QSPreservative - QS
Please try this to counter both your problems of exfoliation & skin dryness.
-
Looking at the formula,
* I would probably go a bit higher with XG (you are stabilising big particles).
* I would not use Apricot shell powder on face, unless it is actually for a face product [face grade] (apricot shell powder/flour has usually bit particles with sharp edges) and can be too harsh on the skin.
* As there’s AHA, you need to make sure the pH is low enough for the acid to be bioavailable. Stearic acid then loses its properties as anionic emulsifier, so no point having it there and you might need to increase non-ionic emulsifier input as the lower pH could break the viscosity.
* What is the Sodium Bicarbonate there for? It will only neutralise the acid. -
Hello everyone/Is it possible to combine mandelic acid and rice powder, papain and bromelain in a face scrub for dry skins ; I want to create a hybrid face scrub that combines physical and chemical exf; the purpose of the scrub would be to remove dead skin; give glow to the face and moisturise it.
Thanks
Log in to reply.