• Formulating

  isododecane hlb

  Posted by babaktajani on November 5, 2022 at 8:59 pm

  I’m trying to formulate waterproof mascara, i need to know if Isododecane has “required hlb”?

  ngarayeva001 replied 2 years ago 3 Members · 6 Replies

  • isododecane
  • required-hlb
• 6 Replies

• 

  Pharma

  Member

  November 5, 2022 at 9:23 pm

  Depends on the emulsifier used.

  Probably around 5-ish?
• 

  babaktajani

  Member

  November 5, 2022 at 9:41 pm

  Glyceryl stearate and Peg-20 stearate (4.5:0.5)
• 

  babaktajani

  Member

  November 5, 2022 at 10:21 pm

  Pharma said:

  Depends on the emulsifier used.

  Probably around 5-ish?

  Ingredients (g): 

  Water: 53.5

  Isododecane: 10

  Iron Oxide: 10

  Bees wax: 5.8

  Paraffin liquid: 5.2

  Carnauba wax: 3

  Cyclopentacyloxane: 3

  Dimethicone 350: 2.5

  Vp/eicosene: 1.5

  Vit E: 0.5

  GMS: 4.5

  Peg-20 stearate: 0.5

  Carbomer 940: 0.15

  TEA: 0.3

  Phenoxyethanol: 0.5
• 

  ngarayeva001

  Member

  November 7, 2022 at 6:31 am

  It will be on the lower end, but I wouldn’t bother with the HLB system too much. All of your emollients have low HLB here. Is TEA part of the emulsification system intended to saponify beeswax, or is it neutralising carbomer? If it’s the first, you potentially need more.
  - I also think you have too much oil, mascaras are mostly waxes.
  - Too much Tocopherol.
  - !!Your preservation system is not sufficient. Be careful with it. It’s a product that is used close to the eyes, and it must be very well preserved!!
   - If you can get hold of carbon black, use it instead of iron oxides.

• 

  ngarayeva001

  Member

  November 7, 2022 at 6:42 am

  Below is one of my more or less successful mascara experiments (having said that, I am not making makeup often because it’s too messy and easier to buy than dealing with clean up).
  You need a glycol to keep the product from drying on lashes and causing fall out under the eyes. It also improves preservative efficacy by reducing water activity.

  To isododecane question, as you can see, there is nothing liquid in this formula, and it came out as a typical mascara (not too thick). I used an example formula from f the Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry as a starting point. What I would improve is a film former. The ones I used are not getting the result I wanted. And Carbon black instead of iron oxides, as I already mentioned.

  https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/18576695-chemistry-and-technology-of-the-cosmetics-and-toiletries-industry

  INCI	%
  Aqua	50.3%
  VP / VA Copolymer	1.0%
  TEA	1.0%
  Butylene glycol	3.0%
  Phenonip	1.0%
  Xanthan gum	0.2%
  VP/Eicosene Copolymer	4.0%
  GMS	3.5%
  Stearic Acid	5.0%
  Cera Alba	6.0%
  Ozokerite	3.0%
  Polyxydroxystearic acid	1.0%
  Ceteareth-20	1.0%
  BHT	0.1%
  Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2	2.0%
  Black Iron oxides (CI77499), Sodium lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride	18.0%

• 

  ngarayeva001

  Member

  November 7, 2022 at 6:45 am

  Also, if you compare waterproof vs non-waterproof formulas in the book I mentioned above and in commercial products, you will notice that waterproof ones are always anhydrous. What I listed above is water-resistant (would tolerate rain but not a splash of water in the face). Waterproof are generally less popular as they are very difficult to remove.

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