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Benchmark vs waxes
I’m trying to reproduce something similar to that benchmark (formula on another post), but some points are header than it looks.
The main problem is due sustentability and PR / marketing I used vegetal waxes instead of polyetylene and paraffin, but client wants with zero odour (except from fragrance) and I couldn’t find at all vegetal waxes without any odour. I found a very low odour rice wax, but client still says it isn’t 100% bad odour free like benchmark.
Does anyone know really odour free vegetable waxes?
Another problem is hydration isn’t so long lasting like benchmark even with an extremely high amount of oils, but I think I can improve this using more glycerin.
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6 Replies
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Shiseido Benefiance Eye Cream
water(aqua/eau), hydrogenated polydecene, glycerin, mineral oil(paraffinum liquidum/huile minerale), petrolatum, butylene glycol, paraffin, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, squalene, glyceryl oleate, sodium pca, glutamic acid, dipropylene glycol, carnosine, beeswax(cera alba/cire d’abeille), microcrystalline wax(cera microcristallina/cire microcristalline), sodium hydroxide, alcohol, polyethylene, methylparaben, tocopheryl acetate, ethylparaben, phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, fragrance (parfum), trisodium edta, tocopherol, sodium metabisulfite, caffeine, iron oxides (ci 77492), peg/ppg-14/7 dimethyl ether, ppg-3 dipivalate, linalool, llimonene, sapindus mukorossi peel extract, citronellol, uncaria gambir extract, geraniol, angelica keiskei leaf/stem extract, alpha-isomethyl ionone, sanguisorba officinalis root extract, crataegus monogyna flower extract, camellia sinensis leaf extract, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, hydroxyproline, iron oxides (ci 77491), citrus junos seed extract, cinnamomum cassia bark extract, ziziphus jujuba fruit extract, chlorella vulgaris extract, eucheuma serra/grateloupia sparsa/saccharina angustata/ulva linza/undaria pinnatifida extract, carbomer, sodium lactate, bht, curcuma longa (turmeric) rhizome extract, polysorbate 20, saccharina angustata/undaria pinnatifida extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.
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@pma You need so search for deodorized waxes.
About the humectancy, it’s very hard to work around the mineral oil + petrolatum combo that Shiseido is using. The closest could be using some occlusive silicone waxes, but I don’t think you want to use any of thos due to your client’s requirements. You could use some lanolin plus some esters…and squalene that is already in the formula.
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You’ll never find a nicer wax…then this one. I think it has a 35% squalane content.
Buy Bulk - Olive Wax | Jedwards International (bulknaturaloils.com)
No amount of oil…will provide ‘hydra’tion.
If you want more barrier function… look at some of the Floratech products (jojoba esters…especially Floraesters K-20W)…and acai sterols. -
Sorry to interrupt with my beginner questions, because i have never made a product like this one before, but can someone quickly explain to me where is the emulsifier in the ingredients that is allowing them to put both glycerin and oils together here? Carbomer?
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I have found something like this helpful: Shiseido Benefiance Wrinkle Smoothing Eye Cream ingredients (Explained) (incidecoder.com)
This is probably a W/O emulsion…so the emulsifiers will look different than what you might be familiar with.
Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate is an emulsifier, and glyceryl oleate is a coemulsifier, and refatting agent.
If you have never used ‘incidecoder.com’ …. I found it was a helpful learning tool….when looking at commercial formulas…and figuring out…what did what. As I learned more…I also became very aware of lots of inaccuracies in the program as well…and I think it is computer generated…and not reviewed.
But still a good place to learn some fundamentals. -
@Graillotion thanks!
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