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Hair Styling gel-“gum effect”
Hello, I am thankful for all the fruitful discussion in this forum and all these experts in the field. Myself being a rather newbie in cosmetics formulation, I have a project for Hair styling gel that needs to be economic, strong hold and resemble the “gum effect” in hair gels.
My question is
1) what is your understanding about Gum effect hair gel? I have studied a few inspiration samples and my understanding is that it is a different texture from the classic hair gels, thicker and heavier like “jam”.2) I have reached to a formulation that is acceptable for the holding and styling benefits, but I need to improve the texture to look thicker and more “gummy”.
Any suggestions? I give my ingredients below.Aqua, VP/VA Copolymer (Luviskol VA 73 W), Glycerine, Carbomer(Carbopol Ultrez10), Polysorbate 20, Aminomethyl propanol, (AMP-95), Fragrance, Preservative, Colour
I think I cannot succeed a better thickness with these polymers combination, as I am already using 2% Carbopol Ultrez 10 and 13% Luviskol VA 73W.
Now I am thinking to experiment with other polymers combination, I have available PVP K 30 powder(Luviskol k30), polyacrylates-2 crosspolymer (Fixate superhold), Novemer EC-2.
Any suggestions?
Thank you in advance
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6 Replies
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I am not sure if I help with this, I am struggling with similar issues in a brow soap/fixing product, but I have used pvp & it helps in holding result.. You may need addition of ceteareth-30 or steareth-21. Until now I have not found a way making formula clear.But both give the gummy result I need.
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try adding PVP K-90 - it’ll thicken the product and have a big effect on sensorials, unlike Luviskol VA 73 WLuviskol VA 73 W is definitely worth keeping in, as it’s a lot less prone to flaking than PVP -
Hello,
Thank you for your comments.
@Bill_Toge. I am generally avoiding to use the PVP types as they are prone to flaking and leave residues on hair, as you already mentioned. I also have not seens it aomng ingredients lists in other benchmarks.
The mystery must be around some new polymer fixatives, I have seen listed polymers such as
polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer
acrylates copolymerBut these could imply hundreds of products I guess.
I tried polyacrylates-2 crosspolymer (Fixate superhold), but did not like the effect at all.
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I don’t know which way is up….when it comes to hair care. But as I have been learning the ins-and-outs of Ceteareth-25 as of late. I guess it is widely used in the water phase….as a ‘edge gel pomade’, whatever the heck that is. Apparently a very different result…based on what phase it is used in.
Don’t know if that is helpful….just stuck with me.
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VP/VA and PVP combined are more flexible and a lot less flaky than PVP on its ownhigh-viscosity PVP will give you a viscous gummy texture at low levels in a way that few if any other styling resins can - K-90 is a good balance between high viscosity and practicality of usagealso, if the benchmarks are manufactured in China (many are, in my experience), the ingredients list is likely to bear little resemblance to the actual product, a lesson I learned the hard way
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MariaSibon said:Hello, I am thankful for all the fruitful discussion in this forum and all these experts in the field. Myself being a rather newbie in cosmetics formulation, I have a project for Hair styling gel that needs to be economic, strong hold and resemble the “gum effect” in hair gels.
My question is
1) what is your understanding about Gum effect hair gel? I have studied a few inspiration samples and my understanding is that it is a different texture from the classic hair gels, thicker and heavier like “jam”.2) I have reached to a formulation that is acceptable for the holding and styling benefits, but I need to improve the texture to look thicker and more “gummy”.
Any suggestions? I give my ingredients below.Aqua, VP/VA Copolymer (Luviskol VA 73 W), Glycerine, Carbomer(Carbopol Ultrez10), Polysorbate 20, Aminomethyl propanol, (AMP-95), Fragrance, Preservative, Colour
I think I cannot succeed a better thickness with these polymers combination, as I am already using 2% Carbopol Ultrez 10 and 13% Luviskol VA 73W.
Now I am thinking to experiment with other polymers combination, I have available PVP K 30 powder(Luviskol k30), polyacrylates-2 crosspolymer (Fixate superhold), Novemer EC-2.
Any suggestions?
Thank you in advance
I have used Ultrez 10 polymer. It gives less thickening than Ultrez 20, & even much lesser than Ultrez 21 & 30.
I have used it in After wax Gel where I needed little flow.
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