Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Stop using natural preservatives and eco cert preservatives

  • Stop using natural preservatives and eco cert preservatives

    Posted by ProfessorHerb on June 30, 2022 at 1:53 am
    Currently I am using leucidal for water based formulas and optiphen for emulsions. I’d like to switch preservatives but I am having trouble determining which ones to try. Both of the preservatives I use now work well enough and don’t cause problems with my sensitive/allergic skin.
    Optiphen sometimes destroys emulsion which sucks because it’s specifically designed to be used for emulsions. But its my favorite so far because it works with a wide range of ph, etc.
    Leucidal is amazing because it works with sensitive skin and in women’s hygiene products. However, you need 3-4% for it to be effective, in the heat it only lasts about 1-3 months before the product goes bad. It also turns clear products pink.
    I am in need of preservative suggestions without PG that is affordable and readily available. My products range in ph from 3-9 on average. I’d still like to tell my customers that the products are suitable for sensitive skin so I’d like something that has less of a risk for causing redness, breakouts or allergies.
    nycnj replied 2 years, 2 months ago 10 Members · 18 Replies
  • 18 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    June 30, 2022 at 2:52 am

    @ProfessorHerb

    I’ve formulate quite a few Eczema products and PE9010 has proven to be the preservative that is best tolerated.  You can try combining Phenoxyethanol/EHG + Pentylene Glycol + Leucidal + Chelator of your choice.  It won’t blow the viscosity of your emulsions.  The Caprylyl Glycol is what is causing issues with your emulsions.

  • ProfessorHerb

    Member
    June 30, 2022 at 3:20 am

    Thank you!! I am looking to use just one preservative which I know is not always chemically sound..but it would mean that I wouldn’t have to reformulate my products either so I am being very lazy.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    June 30, 2022 at 4:20 am

    Use a blend of phenoxyethanol+ parabens or phenoxyethanol+ IPBC with a chelating agent. 

    These two blends are the mildest and strongest preservatives you can use if you don’t want to use formaldehyde releasers. 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    June 30, 2022 at 9:04 am

    Leucidal is amazing?  Good grief.  Not only is it very limited in efficacy, it reportedly includes synthetic disinfectants.  

    https://pubs.acs.org/doi/full/10.1021/jf5063588

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    June 30, 2022 at 11:12 am

    You might consider a parabens/formaldehye releaser-or- phenoxy/chelator based system.
    Leucidal is unjustified in any context.

  • sciencebae92

    Member
    August 19, 2022 at 2:21 pm

    Abdullah said:

    Use a blend of phenoxyethanol+ parabens or phenoxyethanol+ IPBC with a chelating agent. 

    These two blends are the mildest and strongest preservatives you can use if you don’t want to use formaldehyde releasers. 

    Please excuse my ignorance, but what is IPBC? Thanks in advance.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    August 19, 2022 at 4:22 pm

    Iodopropynyl Butyl Carbamate

  • suswang8

    Member
    August 20, 2022 at 6:24 pm

    I’m struggling to understand the subject line of this post.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 21, 2022 at 6:26 pm

    Have you considered using a class of preservatives that was selected a non-allergen of the year  by American Contact Dermatitis Society in 2019? Also well researched and effective. Also advised by several respected professionals in this thread.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 21, 2022 at 6:35 pm

    @Abdullah, I read IPBCis advised not to be used in body creams to limit the exposure. I don’t know how justified is that but mentioning it as something to be checked (there are max usage limits in some jurisdictions too I believe)

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 21, 2022 at 8:10 pm

    @ngarayeva001 - could you specify the class of preservatives?

  • Abdullah

    Member
    August 21, 2022 at 8:51 pm

    @Abdullah, I read IPBCis advised not to be used in body creams to limit the exposure. I don’t know how justified is that but mentioning it as something to be checked (there are max usage limits in some jurisdictions too I believe)

    It is effective at very small amount ≤100ppm and it is mild too. 

    For body cream in Japan 200ppm and in America 1000ppm is the upper limit. So i don’t think less than 100ppm would be any problem.

    I don’t think limitation by some countries mean it is not or less safe. 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    August 21, 2022 at 10:04 pm
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 21, 2022 at 11:16 pm

    Thanks!

  • nycnj

    Member
    August 23, 2022 at 12:50 pm

    @Abdullah what is the purpose of the chelating agent?

  • Abdullah

    Member
    August 23, 2022 at 3:14 pm

    nycnj said:

    @Abdullah what is the purpose of the chelating agent?

    It has many functions but most chemist’s use it to bost preservation.

  • Anca_Formulator

    Member
    August 27, 2022 at 4:18 pm

    @nycj. What @Abdullah said, and the other super important function is to buffer pH from drifting, which improves stability.

  • nycnj

    Member
    August 29, 2022 at 12:52 pm

    Thank you, @Anca_Formulator

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