Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Mild Moisturizing cream with ability to clear and brighten

  • Mild Moisturizing cream with ability to clear and brighten

    Posted by AZIZ_KALUNGI256 on April 20, 2022 at 7:24 pm

    Help me standardise this formular.  Objective is to moisturise , clear and brighten 

    *OILPHASE* 
    Polar wax 5%
    Cetyl alcohol 1%
    GMS 0.5%
    CSA 0.5%
    Mango butter 2%
    Sunflower oil 2%
    Mineral oil 4%
    Salicylic Acid 1%
    Methyl paraben 0.25%
    Propyl paraben 0.5%
    Dimethicone 0.3%
     *COLD WATER* 
    Xanthan gum 0.2%
    Glycerin 3%
    MPG 1%
     *WATER PHASE* 
    Distilled water 76.1%
    Sepi white 1%
    Calendula extract1%
    Neem1%

    * i add the xanthan gum in the cool down phase when the mixture is below 40°F
    Then i add my fragrance at 0.1% or less

    AZIZ_KALUNGI256 replied 2 years, 4 months ago 3 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Abdullah

    Member
    April 21, 2022 at 2:12 am

    What are CSA, MPG and sepi white? 

    I would say add chelating agent, reduce Propyl paraben and add a preservative for bacteria 

  • AZIZ_KALUNGI256

    Member
    April 21, 2022 at 2:58 am

    Abdullah said:

    What are CSA, MPG and sepi white? 

    I would say add chelating agent, reduce Propyl paraben and add a preservative for bacteria 

    CSA is ceto Stearyl alcohol,  MPG is mono propylene glycol, sepi white is a brightening active

  • Camel

    Member
    April 21, 2022 at 4:02 am

    @Abdullah - You might consider looking into sepi white if it is available to you. It is Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine. There is research that shows its efficacy in treating age spots and melasma at 2%. There is also a study by Procter & Gamble that found 1% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine with 5% Niacinamide was more effective than niacinamide alone.

    @AZIZ_KALUNGI256 - I agree with adding a chelating agent and a stronger preservation system. Look into Phenonip; it is a combination of phenoxyethanol and parabens that I was recently introduced to. You could probably use it at 0.5%. 
    Why use sunflower oil when you are already using more effective emollients like mineral oil and dimethicone? You will probably need to add an antioxidant like tocopherol to prevent oxidation, I don’t believe I see one.
  • Abdullah

    Member
    April 21, 2022 at 5:45 am

    @Camel how does it compare to alpha arbutin 2%? 

    I recently launched a 2% alpha arbutin at pH 5 serum for skin whitening and age spot. 

    I am not using it myself as i don’t want to be white  ;) but people who are using it haven’t noticed any effect of it since about a month or so use.

    Maybe it takes more time to function or it is not effective at all. I don’t know. 

  • Camel

    Member
    April 21, 2022 at 5:54 am

    @Abdullah - Honestly, I am not sure how they compare. I can’t seem to find a study comparing them. I do not use these types of products either, as I also do not aspire to be white. ???? But, I would imagine prolonged use is necessary for noticeable effects. They probably need to wait 2-3 months to start to notice anything, if it does work.

  • AZIZ_KALUNGI256

    Member
    May 1, 2022 at 7:27 pm

    Abdullah said:

    @Camel how does it compare to alpha arbutin 2%? 

    I recently launched a 2% alpha arbutin at pH 5 serum for skin whitening and age spot. 

    I am not using it myself as i don’t want to be white  ;) but people who are using it haven’t noticed any effect of it since about a month or so use.

    Maybe it takes more time to function or it is not effective at all. I don’t know. 

    Sepi white is a brightener not a whitener. Concerning which one is more potent, I don’t know. I think it would be nice to pair the 2% Alpha arbutin with 0.1% sepi white, I will experiment it

  • AZIZ_KALUNGI256

    Member
    May 1, 2022 at 7:28 pm

    Camel said:

    @Abdullah - You might consider looking into sepi white if it is available to you. It is Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine. There is research that shows its efficacy in treating age spots and melasma at 2%. There is also a study by Procter & Gamble that found 1% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine with 5% Niacinamide was more effective than niacinamide alone.

    @AZIZ_KALUNGI256 - I agree with adding a chelating agent and a stronger preservation system. Look into Phenonip; it is a combination of phenoxyethanol and parabens that I was recently introduced to. You could probably use it at 0.5%. 
    Why use sunflower oil when you are already using more effective emollients like mineral oil and dimethicone? You will probably need to add an antioxidant like tocopherol to prevent oxidation, I don’t believe I see one.

    Thanks

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