-
Vitisphere Technology for retinol - Vitisphere R8
Hello!
I am just new on this technology called vitisphere R8:
INCI:
Aqua 7732-18-5 231-791-2 25 - 50Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 73398-61-5 277-452-2 10 - 25
Glycerin 56-81-5 200-289-5 10 - 25
Retinol 68-26-8 200-683-7 8
Polysorbate-20 9005-64-5 N/A 5 - 10
Cetyl Palmitate 540-10-3 208-736-6 1 - 5
Laureth-23 9002-92-0 N/A 1 - 5
Trideceth-6
Phosphate 9046-01-9 N/A 0.1 - 1Phenoxyethanol 122-99-6 204-589-7 0.1 - 1
Sodium Hydroxide 1310-73-2 215-185-5 0.1 - 1
Ceramide-NP 100403-19-8 309-560-3 0.1 - 1
It claims that it can penetrate into layer 2 of skin and release little bit at a time, reducing irritation of regular retinol. It’s easy and stable regardless of pH or other unstable actives such as vitamin C, et…
Anyone has experiences on it. Please explain to me. I appreciate any comments.
Thanks in advance
-
6 Replies
-
If it actually did half the things it claimed
Performance Claims- Reduces wrinkles
- Brightening
- Fades dark spots
- Softening
- Moisturizing
That would make it a drug. (e.g. reduce wrinkles, brighten skin, fade dark spots)
I’ve seen no evidence that this is any more than a claims ingredient. Interesting story but short on scientific evidence.
-
This is basically Retinol as the active ingredient that is encapsulated in a matrix of non-ionic surfactants with a hydrophobic head and hydrophilic tail. The surfactants surround the Retinol drops and form small vessicles that can better penetrate the epidermis aided by the lipids. In short, it’s encapsulated Retinol.
-
Thanks @Perry & @MarkBroussard.
It’s also claiming that with body heat, it releases pure Retinol. Result is to reduce irritation. -
I’ve always been skeptical of encapsulation technology in cosmetics. If the encapsulate is strong enough to withstand the forces of manufacture, then it is too strong to break when used on the skin. But if it’s weak enough to break when on the skin, it’s too weak to not break open during manufacture.
Unfortunately, you’ll have no way to determine whether your encapsulated material is still encapsulated in your final product.
Consider that it will also reduce irritation if the retinol never gets released from the encapsulate. How would you ever be able to prove that it got released?
-
@dtdang @Perry
The Vitisphere encapsultion technology is very similar to a multitude of encapsulation technologies … these approaches are derived from drug delivery systems for pharmaceuticals. When using these you should never subject the vessicles to shear forces, but mix in with gentle stirring. There are a variety of techniques to measure the release of Retinol post-application.
-
Thanks @MarkBroussard
Log in to reply.