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Reverse Formulation
Hey folks,Thank you for having me here.
My name is Marina and I need your expertise and help.
I’m trying to reverse formulate one of the face serum-cream that I brought for my personal use 2 years ago. Due to covid, I’m unable to travel and buy it again ,so I want to give it a shot and try to reverse formulate.
My questions are :
1. polyglyceryl dicitrate/stearate can be replaced by Polyglyceryl3 - Diisosteatate ?
2. sodium gluconate can be added directly to the formulation or I have to dilute it first in water as it is my first time working with this ingredient ? - also is this a preservative ?
3. glyceryl caprylate and glyceryl undecylenate - is a preservative in this case at 1.25Please do let me know what am I doing wrong as my emulsion doesn’t feel the same as the product I purchased.
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8 Replies
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Re. 3. Real weak system - you need more than that.
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Thank you for betting back to me
The supplier recommended 1.25% that’s the max I can use.
That’s why I believe that sodium gluconate acts as a preservative, but I’m not sure on how to work with this ingredient
Can you please advice
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For question 1:
No I don’t think you can substitute- the original emulsifier is meant for O/W systems, your substitution is meant for W/O.I’ve never used this shop but they have it available here:
https://www.flowertalescosmetics.com/en/catalogue/product/polyglyceryl-3-dicitrate-stearate
if you have a connection with an evonik rep:
https://glenncorp.com/shop/tego-care-psc-3-mb/ -
Glyceryl’s undecylenate and caprylate with or without gluconate is a lousy system. any idea pH?
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Hi Folks,
Thank you again for your reply
I’m based in Asia and I contacted before both suppliers before - the shop doesn’t deliver outside of Italy . The supplier just will not reply although I used my business email to try and get their attention. It’d be lovely if someone here can help me to find this ingredient / supplier who has it
I understand that the preservation system is not strong enough, but it didn’t answer my question on how to use the ingredient - the product is at 3.9pH. When I was formulating I was taking the pH though the process and the base has a pH of 5 after adding the preservative and essential oils it jumped to 6.5pH and that is when I used citric acid and bring it back down to 4pH
Thank you
Marina -
Marina - did the original prroduct have a PAO?
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Hey Phil,
Yes it has a 6M PAO
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Glyceryl Caprylate may not be stable at low pH like 3.9
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