Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup Silicones (cyclomethicones) in pressed powder

  • Silicones (cyclomethicones) in pressed powder

    Posted by olga on October 7, 2020 at 10:43 am

    Hi everyone!
    I make some pressed color products for myself and find this very interesting, especially experimenting with different formulation. I found that dimethicones in liquid binder are very useful and improve texture. I am trying use cyclomethicone in formula and this make process(of making pressed powders) much easier, also I feel that texture becomes better! But! 1) Does cyclomethicone evaporates during the use/storage of product? And second question: 2) is there some other useful silicones (silicone polymers) that could improve texture and make the product more crease-stable (for eyeshadow) and more long-lasting for other products? (for example, PEG-XX dimethicone, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate). Thank you very much in advance for any comment and advice!=)

    olga replied 4 years, 1 month ago 5 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    October 7, 2020 at 12:04 pm

    @olga You definitely need to try elastomeric silicones. I used this one in the past, but there are many others from different suppliers (Dow, Grant, Wacker, etc.): https://www.essence-plus.com/essence-plus689/program_download/good/20161011160929872.pdf

  • seaberry

    Member
    October 7, 2020 at 4:23 pm

    I’m not sure if this would work for your intentions, but you might want to explore Pentsia powder (INCI: Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer), which looks like it has some very useful properties for powders and eyeshadow. 

  • olga

    Member
    October 7, 2020 at 5:52 pm

    ketchito said:

    @olga You definitely need to try elastomeric silicones. I used this one in the past, but there are many others from different suppliers (Dow, Grant, Wacker, etc.): https://www.essence-plus.com/essence-plus689/program_download/good/20161011160929872.pdf

    Thank you!

  • olga

    Member
    October 7, 2020 at 5:52 pm

    seaberry said:

    I’m not sure if this would work for your intentions, but you might want to explore Pentsia powder (INCI: Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer), which looks like it has some very useful properties for powders and eyeshadow. 

    Thank you very much=)

  • olga

    Member
    October 7, 2020 at 5:56 pm

    ketchito said:

    @olga You definitely need to try elastomeric silicones. I used this one in the past, but there are many others from different suppliers (Dow, Grant, Wacker, etc.): https://www.essence-plus.com/essence-plus689/program_download/good/20161011160929872.pdf

    In fact, I have this one (silicone powder), becouse it’s easy to obtain in some local inthernet shops) Will try this one) I think that will be good for powder foundation)

  • Sponge

    Member
    October 7, 2020 at 7:01 pm

    Cyclomethicones do in fact evaporate so they’d likely be of little use to pressed powder.

    You’d definitely need to be more specific with your needs to find additives that may help you formulation. Ideally with formulation ingredients and percentages. 

    Lowering the oil/liquid binder content may improve creasing. 
  • olga

    Member
    October 8, 2020 at 10:04 am

    Sponge said:

    Cyclomethicones do in fact evaporate so they’d likely be of little use to pressed powder.

    You’d definitely need to be more specific with your needs to find additives that may help you formulation. Ideally with formulation ingredients and percentages. 

    Lowering the oil/liquid binder content may improve creasing. 

    I have different formulas, so question is more general) thank you for suggestion and answer!!)). I have seen in some commercial products (powder foundation, eyeshadows) that I like cyclomethicones, but in the end of ingredient list. Is that possible that they use them just to make manufacturing easier?
    “Lowering the oil/liquid binder content may improve creasing. ” - yes, I guess there should be some balance betweet creamy and nice texture and crease resistance. But for the other hand - there are liquid eyeshadows and primers, that are silicone-based, they form thin film on skin and improme crease resistanse and make product last longer) 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 8, 2020 at 5:37 pm

    By the way, you can often see isododecane in cream eyeshadows and there is no way you can use the whole pot because they dry out and become unusable as isododecane evaporates (it is also volatile). Example: https://www.chanel.com/en_GB/fragrance-beauty/makeup/p/eyes/eyeshadows/ombre-premiere-longwear-cream-eyeshadow-p176802.html#skuid-0176804

    So, I would think that volatile substances should be avoided in eyeshadows and powders. 

    Regarding Trimethylsiloxysilicate it’s a must-have for makeup. It is a very nice film former that makes makeup long-lasting. I haven’t seen it in powders but it’s used a lot in foundations, concealers, lipsticks and similar. It comes in powder form as well as diluted in Cyclopentasiloxane to isododecane.

  • olga

    Member
    October 9, 2020 at 9:40 am

    By the way, you can often see isododecane in cream eyeshadows and there is no way you can use the whole pot because they dry out and become unusable as isododecane evaporates (it is also volatile). Example: https://www.chanel.com/en_GB/fragrance-beauty/makeup/p/eyes/eyeshadows/ombre-premiere-longwear-cream-eyeshadow-p176802.html#skuid-0176804

    So, I would think that volatile substances should be avoided in eyeshadows and powders. 

    Regarding Trimethylsiloxysilicate it’s a must-have for makeup. It is a very nice film former that makes makeup long-lasting. I haven’t seen it in powders but it’s used a lot in foundations, concealers, lipsticks and similar. It comes in powder form as well as diluted in Cyclopentasiloxane to isododecane.

    Thank you for a useful comment!

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