Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Solubilizing 5% oil in 95% water formulation

  • Solubilizing 5% oil in 95% water formulation

    Posted by emma1985 on August 17, 2020 at 12:01 pm

    Would I use Polysorbate for this? If so, which one? This will be a leave on product. Can Polysorbate be left on the skin?

    Also, what concentration?

    Ty.

    emma1985 replied 4 years, 6 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • emma1985

    Member
    August 17, 2020 at 12:04 pm

    If it matters, the “oil” will be either IPM or C12-15 AB.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 17, 2020 at 12:45 pm

    You’ve got to match the HLB values.  
    The HLB value for IPM is 11.5.   The closest to the HLB for polysorbate is Polysorbate 85.  Yes, it can be left on the skin.

    The HLB for C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE is 13. To use polysorbates for that material, you’ll need to blend Polysorbate 85 and Polysorbate 60.

  • emma1985

    Member
    August 17, 2020 at 12:58 pm

    Thank you. Looks like it’s gonna be a bit of a challenge to source Polysorbate 85 without buying kgs of it. 

    What it I used Capric Caprylic Triglycerides as my oil phase? Is there a more commonly available Polysorbate (or other solubilizer) I can use?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 17, 2020 at 2:19 pm

    Google “emulsifier HLB” and find ones that match the required HLB of the oils you want to use. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 17, 2020 at 2:49 pm

    Does it have to be transparent? What else is in the formula?

  • emma1985

    Member
    August 17, 2020 at 3:39 pm

    Mostly water, Resveratrol and Ferulic Acid both dissolved in Dimethyl Isosorbide
    . It doesn’t have to be transparent. I suppose maybe I can use a tiny amount of Aristoflex or Sepimax and have a gel serum? 

    The 5% oil part is just IPM or C12-15 AB, with Lipochroman-6 dispersed in it. 

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