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Acne moisturizer criticize/Suggestion
I want to make Acne Moisturizer.Zinc PCA- 0.3%-0.5%Vit E.Acetate-0.5%Sod. PCA(50%)-0.3% to 0.5%Sod. Hyaluronate -0.3%Tea Tree oil-0.15%Glycerin-3 -5%Polyquote 7- 0.5% to 1%Carbomer-940TEAPolyoxyl 40 HCOPhenoxyethanolI want my formulation Non-comedogenic -Oil free claim.This product is a combo with AHA cleanser.I welcome all Your suggestion.Thank You. -
8 Replies
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Technical issues: Sodium PCA and Zinc PCA are strong electrolytes they will break your carbomer right away. You need to find another thickener for this. A good option might be upping your hyaluronic acid to .05-.75% (I assume it’s high molecular weight). In my experience, it’s a very good gel maker that tolerates a lot (although expensive). Another option might be Sepimax Zen, but you need to test it. You can alternatively use a clear grade of xanthan, but I personally hate the texture it gives to a product.
Do you need that tocopheryl acetate? It doesn’t do anything but add problems (you need more solubiliser, more solubiliser means more foaming and less elegant application etc).
Preservation: phenoxy alone isn’t sufficient. It doesn’t cover mould and yeast. You need to pair it with something. At least use Euxyl PE9010 (phenoxy and EHG), but I would just go for parabens.
Efficacy: Zinc PCA is a good idea, but tea tree oil, although is very popular, isn’t the most effective ingredient for acne. A small amount of salicylic acid might give much better result (I am not talking peel level, but maybe 0.2%). You can also add niacinamide, it works well with zinc PCA. In this case (if you remove tocopheryl acetate and tea tree oil), you can skip solubilisers and make your formula more elegant and effective. -
What would you recommend as a paraben/formaldehyde free preservative?
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ngarayeva001 said:Technical issues: Sodium PCA and Zinc PCA are strong electrolytes they will break your carbomer right away. You need to find another thickener for this. A good option might be upping your hyaluronic acid to .05-.75% (I assume it’s high molecular weight). In my experience, it’s a very good gel maker that tolerates a lot (although expensive). Another option might be Sepimax Zen, but you need to test it.
@ng@ngarayeva001 Thank you.I can try xanthan gum. sepimax zen is costlier for now, Waht do you think of SEPIPlus 400. I am going to try as i have sample. I know it makes white gel.Well parabens are favorite and handy.Niacinamide is good idea. my pH range 5-6. will 0.2% salicylic work at this pH?.What about Aquaxyl? HA is I think for Marketing.Thanks again. -
I saw studies that suggest that SA is still active even at pH around neutral.
I personally don’t like sepiplus 400, but I know many people who do. It makes white gel, but regardless of what Seppic says it’s not electrolyte resistant (not even close to Sepimax Zen) and it’s very easy to use too much. And when you use too much it balls (the products peels of the skin). Try it, it might be my personal bias. From Seppic’s I really like Simulgel EG.
Re hyaluronic, I don’t like it as a moisturiser, but it forms clear gels that can tolerate a significant amount of electrolytes and the texture is pleasant (unlike gums). It’s pricy but when I make serums with a high amount of actives for my own use I prefer gelling it with hyaluronic acid. -
@ngarayeva001 Thank you for Nice useful info.will try first Transparent Xanthan.I know glycerin and HA both work same as experts always recommended on this forum.
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Does Polyquat -7 do anything here?
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Probably it adds a little bit of a slip but I am not sure you can mix it with xanthan or Zen..
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Is Squalene useful for this type of product?
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