• Formulating

  Don’t understand what makes my cream burn

  Posted by TheSocksTooBig on December 27, 2019 at 12:26 am

  Hello everyone, 

  Happy holidays . I was wondering if anyone can help me on a basic gel/cream I made for personal use. The consistency, and feel is great but unfortunately when I use it, it has a burning sensation on the skin for a good minute. Possible to help me identify what is wrong with this formulation? Have I been using too much of something that is causing irritation? I’ve had 5 people try it and they all feel mild heat/burning sensation. Really appreciate it  

  PH adjusted to 5.49 with lactic acid dilution

  Water 67.3

  Di Sodium EDTA 0.2

  Propanediol 2

  diPropylene Glycol 3

  Glycerin 2

  Allantoin 2

  Hexanediol CG 0.5

  Pentylene Glycol 1

  Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.3

  Phase B
  % by weight

  Squalane -Sat 5

  Octylodecanol -US 2

  jojoba oil clear - US 5

  Cream maker fluid (Sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, dilauryl citrate 1

  Cetyl Alcohol 1

  Polysorbate 60 1

  Phase C
  % by weight

  GelMaker EMU (sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysobate 80) 3.5

  Phase D
  % by weight

  Oatmeal Extract 1

  Phase E % by weight

  Bisabolol 0.1

  Vitamin E acetate 0.1

  Phenoxyethanol SA 1

  Caprylyl Glycol EHG 1

  Total 100

  Graillotion replied 3 years, 11 months ago 7 Members · 8 Replies
• 8 Replies

• 

  jemolian

  Member

  December 27, 2019 at 2:14 am

  Using Optiphen (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol) gives me a warm feeling so i no longer use it. I suspect it’s the Caprylyl Glycol.

• 

  Even

  Member

  December 28, 2019 at 3:42 am

  Phenoxyethanol &Caprylyl Glycol use 1% maybe feel warm and burn, it is too much that can irritate skin.

• 

  OldPerry

  Member

  December 28, 2019 at 3:32 pm

  Most likely Phenoxyethanol.  That’s the downside of avoiding parabens.

• 

  belassi

  Member

  December 28, 2019 at 3:52 pm

  I really doubt it’s the caprylyl glycol. That’s a major part of the preservative we use and we’ve never had a problem.

• 

  jemolian

  Member

  December 29, 2019 at 3:21 am

  I’ve tested in water: 

  • 1% Optiphen (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol) 
  • 1% SymDiol 68 (INCI: 1,2-Hexanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol)
  • 1% Euxyl PE 9010 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin)

  The only warming feeling i felt was from the ones containing Caprylyl Glycol which are Optiphen & SymDiol 68. Perhaps i’m slightly sensitive to Caprylyl Glycol? 

• 

  TheSocksTooBig

  Member

  December 29, 2019 at 8:20 pm

  I changed the preservative, and no longer experience that burning! thanks everyone

• 

  Thota

  Member

  December 25, 2020 at 6:14 am

  TheSocksTooBig said:

  I changed the preservative, and no longer experience that burning! thanks everyone

  Hi, Can you please let me know which preservative is feeling better for you.
  I too felt warming sensation when I used Spectrastat - it contains Capryl glycol. 

• 

  Graillotion

  Member

  December 25, 2020 at 7:03 am

  Seems like a reasonable formula, other than the Allantoin at 2%.

  Just curious, since Allantoin is only .57%  soluble in water, are you using the other portion as a derm abrasion product?

  Allantoin solubility:

  Water: 0.57% (25 °C); ethanol (96%): 0.04% (25 °C); eth/water (1/1): 0.35% (25 °C); propylene glycol/water (1/1): 0.40% (25 °C); glycerol/water (1/1): 0.60% (25 °C)

  Or is there a better solubilizer I am not aware of?

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