Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Shea butter glycerides

  • Shea butter glycerides

    Posted by GARIFUNA on December 19, 2019 at 3:48 pm

    Has anyone worked with Shea butter glycerides before? Is it worth purchasing. It claims to suspend in water and can be used as a low hlb emulsifier. Also is able to form a lotion at  10-25% alone in water and is non greasy feeling.  Thanks

    JPS replied 4 years, 1 month ago 5 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 19, 2019 at 7:17 pm

    Is it Glycereth-8 Shea Butter esters that you are referring to?

  • GARIFUNA

    Member
    December 19, 2019 at 7:50 pm

    @ngarayeva001 no it’s not as far as I can tell. The inci is Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter. It is sold by Making Cosmetics. Here is a link to the product https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Shea-Butter-Glycerides_p_80.html?locale=en

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 19, 2019 at 11:49 pm

    So strange. It’s an inci of a ‘normal’ shea butter but they say it’s water dispersible.. 

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 20, 2019 at 12:29 am

    It is unfortunate, but re-packers like MakingCosmetics often modify the INCI to make it a bit different from the ingredient manufacturers that they purchase product from.  Presumably, part of the re-packer distribution agreement is that they cannot use the manufacturer’s INCI is the only reason that I can fathom.  It’s not all of their products, but some products that have a different INCI from the original product manufacturer’s INCI.

    The proper INCI is Shea Butter Glycerides and the manufacturer is Jarchem Innovative Ingredients.

    Yes, they work just fine … 3% yields a nice cream.  I find them difficult to work with at higher levels as they tend to separate from the water phase.

  • GARIFUNA

    Member
    December 20, 2019 at 4:01 am

    @MarkBroussard thanks for responding.  

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 20, 2019 at 9:50 am

    MakingCosmetics are particularly difficult. They make up names for ingredients. Their GelMaker PH, is actually Sepimax Zen. GelMaker Silicone, it’s some Dow Corning’s ingredient (forgot which one). But what if you can’t tell by INCI? They have GelMaker powder, there are so many ingredients with that INCI and I have no idea whether it’s lubrizol’s ultrez 20 or Pemulen or something else. Lotioncrafter at least tells you directly it’s Sepimax Zen or Aristoflex.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    December 20, 2019 at 2:13 pm

    I don’t think it is legal (certainly not proper) to alter the INCI name of an ingredient. Those are assigned to a material by the PCPC and are identified in the INCI dictionary. Makingcosmetics.com can’t just make their own INCI name.  

    They can certainly rename something from their trade name (e.g. Sepimax Zen becomes GelMaker PH) but the INCI name should not change.

  • JPS

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 7:39 pm

    It is unfortunate, but re-packers like MakingCosmetics often modify the INCI to make it a bit different from the ingredient manufacturers that they purchase product from.  Presumably, part of the re-packer distribution agreement is that they cannot use the manufacturer’s INCI is the only reason that I can fathom.  It’s not all of their products, but some products that have a different INCI from the original product manufacturer’s INCI.

    The proper INCI is Shea Butter Glycerides and the manufacturer is Jarchem Innovative Ingredients.

    Yes, they work just fine … 3% yields a nice cream.  I find them difficult to work with at higher levels as they tend to separate from the water phase.

    Hi! Thanks for the helpful response here. I’m looking to try Shea Butter Glycerides as well. It’s good to know that higher % wasn’t stable for  you. So with 3%, did you just add that to a complete water phase? I’m looking to plump up a hydrosol recipe. Would adding 3% to the mix turn it into a pumpable or even sprayable cream? Thanks!

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    August 7, 2020 at 3:31 pm

    GARIFUNA said:

    Has anyone worked with Shea butter glycerides before? Is it worth purchasing. It claims to suspend in water and can be used as a low hlb emulsifier. Also is able to form a lotion at  10-25% alone in water and is non greasy feeling.  Thanks
    Hi GARIFUNA, you are right. The shea butter glycerides from Jarchem can disperse in water and perform as a co-emulsifier with HLB 4.5-5.5. The trade name is Jarplex SB-WD.
    The use level is 5-30%. I0% SB-WD in water is able to form a sprayable creamy lotion. <3
    For more information, feel free to contact Jarchem at info@jarchem.com.

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