Hair Pomade - pH adjustment

Formulating

Hair Pomade - pH adjustment

Posted by Will on October 20, 2019 at 8:21 am

Hey guys,

I am struggling with a matte effect hair pomade here.

I am using 7% Acudyne 1000 as the fixing agent. When I neutralize it (NaOH pH 8.5-9.0) it looks nice and clear. But when I add the Oil Phase (bee wax, carnauba was, shea butter, ceteareth-20, C-16, etc) the pH drops to below 6.0 again.

I am suspecting that Acudyne is going back to its inactive form, because the pomade is not at all fixative and it is leaving this horrible white trace behind, which looks like Acudyne inactive form (super white liquid).

Any suggestions?

Cheers,

Will

Will replied 5 years, 1 month ago 2 Members · 4 Replies
4 Replies

Fekher

Member
October 21, 2019 at 12:49 pm

@Will give full Lol for better advices , but generally i can see a lot of corrections that can be done , it depends on the lol and the desired product .

Will

Member

October 21, 2019 at 8:39 pm

Hi there @Fekher and thanks for your reply. Below is the LOI for this product:

Fase	Materia Prima	%
A	Aqua	44.95
A	EDTA Na2	0.05
A	Glicerina	1.5
A	Acudyne 1000	7
B	Trietanolamina	1
C	Polimer W-25	4
D	Lipex Shea	2
D	Shea Butter	5
D	Alcool C16	6
D	Polybase 165F	3.5
D	Polysorbate 20	5
D	Methilan GMS	4
D	Carnaúba Wax	4
D	Beewax	4
E	Rice Silk SN - Rice Silica	7
F	Parfum	0.5
F	Fenoxietanol/Parabenos	0.5
	Total	100

The idea is to get a smooth but firm hair pomade, matte effect, when rubbed in the hands it “disappears” leaving no white trace. So far I am getting the right consistency, but it is leaving this undesired white trace and no enough hair fixing.

Any help would be very much appreciated!

Will

Fekher

Member
October 22, 2019 at 1:33 pm

@will from the lol i will say that your oil phase seems to 100 % solids and that’s almost will give a bad resultas ( may it is the reason of white trace) , so try to find the best proportion between solid and liquid ( in oil phase ) , and for Acudyne 1000’s fixation i guess it is not about ph but almost adding oil phase to water phase will decrease the fixation effect so to lower oil level the better fixation effect.

From your lol i can see that you are doing good that’s why i’am ready for help,have nice work.
Will

Member
October 27, 2019 at 12:07 am

Thanks @Fekher, I am going to reduce the levels of solids in my oil phase and do a few more tests. All best!