Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Watery Cream

  • Watery Cream

    Posted by Dtdang on August 21, 2019 at 11:40 am

    Anyone can help me understanding the “Watery Cream” that is based on water drop macro emulsion solution: Ecodropgel?

    Dtdang replied 5 years, 1 month ago 4 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 1:03 pm

    It’s simply yet another emulsifier, but of course, has its own unique properties.  Use it like any other emulsifier  … “water drop macro emulsion” is simply marketing gibberish.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 1:16 pm

    Probably @Dtdang hasn’t worked with W/O emulsifiers before, so the question. Have you made W/O emulsions?

  • Dtdang

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 1:25 pm

    @ngarayeva001, Yes
    I just went through the presentation. The end user of watery cream will feel less oil on their skin, just water drops. 
    I will try out soon and let you know.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 1:28 pm

    Does your presentation specify how to process w/o emulsions? It is quite different than mixing two phases together. You need electrolytes for the stability and probably magnesium stearate in your oil phase. Also the processing is different.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 1:35 pm

    @MarkBroussard, @ngarayeva001 
    Like @MarkBroussard said:
    It’s simply yet another emulsifier, but of course, has its own unique properties.  Use it like any other emulsifier  … “water drop macro emulsion”…

    It is not w/o or o/w. It is more freedom formulate like Sepiplus 400. But, end user do not feel oils, just water drops. it is just available two years ago.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 1:50 pm

    INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite

    Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate - HLB value approx 3. What kind of emulsifier is it?

    You are trying to make a High Internal Phase water in oil emulsion. You need to understand the difference between oil in water emulsions and water in oil emulsions. You need to understand how to stabilise water in oil. It’s not Sepiplus 400 where you just dump water, oil and sepiplus 400 in one beaker and stir it with a fork..

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 1:55 pm
    From what I understand, it’s basically a high water content cold cream which breaks upon application. Nothing fancy there except for a lighter texture (more water and hydrophobic clay instead of wax) than traditional cold creams…
    BTW a water phase of >80% makes it a HIPE gel.
    HERE‘s what I found (and HERE the shorter English version).
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 2:23 pm

    Actually, it’s very simple to use … just mix Oil and Water Phases with an overhead mixer and you can make O/W emulsions with this as the primary emulsifer:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kgx16A-gPrg

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPmvUr257b4

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 3:05 pm

    Interesting..  It looks like Isolan range to me. I wouldn’t think you can get O/W with Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate.

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 6:28 pm

    …O/W with Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate.

    Actually, EcoDropGel is intended to form w/o emulsions ;) .

  • Dtdang

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 8:29 pm

    I thank all of you. That’s way to learn. 
    I will try it and post the results here.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 9:23 pm

    Thank you @Pharma. I only had a chance to watch the videos now and it’s clearly a HIPE w/o, as I suggested before.

    @Dtdang, add magnesium sulfate to the water phase. It’s actually important. If you don’t have magnesium sulfate at least  add sea salt (but not table salt). I often use polyglyceryl-3 triolivate as co-emulsifier in W/O, as they suggested in the second video. If you don’t have it, some thickener in the oil phase might be useful. Either a little of hydrogenated oil (like hydrogenated jojoba wax) or polyglycerol -3 beeswax. And be ready that this emulsion will separate. It takes a while to get w/o right. 

  • Dtdang

    Member
    August 21, 2019 at 11:53 pm

    Thanks @ngarayeva001

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