CREAM BECOME SEPARATE WHEN ADDING OPTIPHEN PLUS

Formulating

CREAM BECOME SEPARATE WHEN ADDING OPTIPHEN PLUS

Posted by KRose on May 18, 2019 at 3:06 pm

Dear

Sir & Miss

I would like to ask for help in solving my problem. Very sorry about my english.

I have made cream last night 12 times. When adding Preservative Optiphen, the cream has become separate. Before this I’ve made this formula many times but no problem. I’m very confused. Really need your help. Tqvm

Here is my formula

.
PHASE A

70.0gm Distilled Water

2.0gm Glycerin

0.2gm Xanthan Gum

Total = 72.2GM

.

PHASE B

5.0gm Triglyceride

4.0gm Organic Argan Oil

1.0gm Organic Rosehip Oil

0.5gm Tocopherol

3.0gm Olive Wax

1.5gm Cetyl Alcohol

1.5gm Glyceryl Monostearate

Total = 16.5GM

.

PHASE C

0.5gm Allantoin

1.5gm Bearberry Extract

2.5gm Licorice Extract

3.0gm Dilute Vit C (SAP)

3.0gm Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

0.10gm Ylang-ylang EO

0.10gm Geranium EO

0.10gm Frankincense EO

1.0gm Preservative

Total = 12.3GM
.
PH 6.5 / GRAND TOTAL = 101.GM

KRose replied 5 years, 2 months ago 7 Members · 9 Replies
9 Replies

Bill_Toge

Member
May 18, 2019 at 4:54 pm

what temperature was the batch when you added Optiphen?
KRose

Member
May 18, 2019 at 6:08 pm

Phase B in Phase A - 75°C
Phase C in BA - (Below 45°C)
Adjust PH To 6.5

Lastly Added Optiphen Plus at 40°C,
KRose

Member
May 18, 2019 at 6:26 pm

@Bill_Toge

Phase B in Phase A at 75°C
Phase C in B - Below 45°C
Adjust PH To 6.5

Lastly Added Optiphen Plus at 40°C,
PJNaturals

Member
June 27, 2019 at 3:08 am

When adding Optiphen Plus it is best added when temperature is 145-160. It causes separation when temp is too low and Optiphen Plus is added.
erindlea

Member
June 27, 2019 at 2:25 pm

Optiphen Plus is really sensitive to temperature. I have had emulsions break when it was added at 40C. You might try cooling to 37-38C just to be on the safe side.
OldPerry

Member
June 28, 2019 at 1:07 am

Why so many ingredients? sigh.

I say get rid of everything from Phase C (except the preservative), dump the tocopherol from Phase B, up the Cetyl Alcohol to at least 2.0g and see what you get.

Every extra ingredient you add increases the chance you’re going to have an unstable formula. Once you can make a stable formula, then you can start added the less critical “goodies.”

See this post about minimalist formulating
belassi

Member
June 28, 2019 at 2:30 am

It is a miracle it ever worked in the first place. You have one emulsifier, the glyceryl monostearate. And ten times as much lipids to emulsify. And no co-emulsifier. The only reason it could ever hold together is a) the xanthan gum and b) you might actually have a type of emulsion based on licorice IF your extract is better than 10% gla, which I very much doubt. If it comes as a liquid, forget it, useless.
Pharma

Member
June 30, 2019 at 2:34 pm

Don’t forget the olive wax and cetyl alcohol: The oil phase is probably solid which results in a semi-stable emulsion as for example used in traditional cold cream. This would also explain why the emulsion breaks when adding optiphen plus.
KRose

Member
July 7, 2019 at 7:32 am

Perry said:

Why so many ingredients? sigh.

I say get rid of everything from Phase C (except the preservative), dump the tocopherol from Phase B, up the Cetyl Alcohol to at least 2.0g and see what you get.

Every extra ingredient you add increases the chance you’re going to have an unstable formula. Once you can make a stable formula, then you can start added the less critical “goodies.”

See this post about minimalist formulating

Tqvm for your advice. I will add Cetyl Alcohol to 2% and remove some items at phase c and b for stability.

Very happy when get this advice. I will practice very well and also thanks to all who are willing to help me.