Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Gel type water based styling products emulsifier question

  • Gel type water based styling products emulsifier question

    Posted by Spinr on May 6, 2019 at 9:14 am

    This might sound simple to some and maybe I am missing the boat here but thought it worth asking anyhow.

    Why is it that many gel type water based pomades/clays on the market which have the usual high level percentage of Ceteareth-25 or 20, then PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Propylene Glycol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil in the formulas don’t seem to have a low HLB emulsifier to balance it out, but instead tend to use additional Polysorbate 20 or 60 which are high HLB’s and why not not Glyceryl Stearate?

    I know Peg 7 is an emulsifier (10 HLB) so is this balancing out, why do formulas have polysorbate 20 or 60 apart from helping the fragrance mix?

    Thanks

    Fekher replied 5 years, 6 months ago 2 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Fekher

    Member
    May 6, 2019 at 1:49 pm

    @Spinr Actually no hlb required in water based pomade cause it is not emulsion the emulsifiers are used to obtain adequat texture as ceteareth .

  • Spinr

    Member
    May 6, 2019 at 2:09 pm

    HFekher said:

    @Spinr Actually no hlb required in water based pomade cause it is not emulsion the emulsifiers are used to obtain adequat texture as ceteareth .

    Hi Fekher, what about when there are waxes and butters in there, I ask as my formula includes clay and a small amount of butter and wax.

    I noticed that once cooled it appears as if it is sweating the next day but this then disappears, so was wondering if it was the emulsification issues or mixing, or capping them too soon.

    This formula does not have a low emulsifier, this got me thinking..

    Ingredients: Beeswax, Cateareth 20,Wate, PEG40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Kaolin, PEG7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Candelilla Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Polysorbate 60, Jojoba oil, Carnauba Wax, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Peppermint Oil, Lavender Oil, Tea tree Oil

  • Fekher

    Member
    May 9, 2019 at 7:43 pm

    @Spinr so your product is cream wax then you will need to know your required hlb for your oil phase.

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