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Duo Phase Frizz Elixir
This is a formula I found on ULP:
Phase A:
Water, 61.8
Glycerin, 2
Mg sulfate heptahydrate, 3
ethanol, 1.5
citric acid, 0.1
preservative, 0.5Phase B:
Cyclopentasiloxane, 18
Cetiol CC, 5
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 1
Dimeticone & phenyl trimethicone & trimethylsiloxysilicate & dimethiconol (Dow Corning CB-3046 fluid), 71. What is the purpose of the magnesium sulfate and do I really need to include it because it will be a hassle to obtain?
2. Same question, for the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. Seems to be just a sunscreen. Can I omit it?
3. It would be really really difficult to get the Dow Corning CB-3046. I see from the data sheet that it’s 100% silicone content and has a viscosity of 250-500 so could I simply replace it with dimethicone fluid 500cst, which I have in stock?
4. I take it ‘bi phase’ means a product that separates into two layers and requires shaking before use?
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5 Replies
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OK forget item 1, I finally discovered information about that on a consumer forum. So I’ll omit that.
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I never get answers to my questions these days. Well never mind I have sussed it out myself and made the product.
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So what’s the purpose of the mg in the formula?.
If the remove the methoxycinnamate I guess you could also remove the Cetiol.
You can replace the mix with dimethicone, but you won’t get the same performance by any chance. In fact dimethicone is just a carrier, I doubt it has much effect other than viscosity. The hard work will come from the resin and the trimethicone. I guess it will be harder and more expensive to source those separately. See this.
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The product I made works OK; I will add 1% Polyquart H-81. The magnesium is for curl enhancement but it’s only a short term solution.
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it also helps the phases separate quickly and cleanly, though any salt can do this job, not just magnesium onesin my last job I managed to duplicate a Garnier product like this; it was one of the most lengthy and challenging formulating tasks I’ve ever undertaken, and the office staff, who were given the task of evaluating the prototypes, were the biggest collection of nit-picking fussy sods you could ever hope to meet (if only they’d held their own work to the same standard…)
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