Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Polyacrylate ‐ 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20

  • Polyacrylate ‐ 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20

    Posted by Dtdang on January 25, 2019 at 12:41 am

    Hello Friends,

    Anyone has experience for using “Polyacrylate 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20”. Would you please sharing your experiences?

    Thanks in advance.

    Dtdang replied 5 years, 10 months ago 6 Members · 21 Replies
  • 21 Replies
  • Dtdang

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 1:58 am

    There is demo on youtube. It looks like easy emulsion and stable.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8C-IWZz7Go4

  • Dtdang

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 3:42 am

    New stuff called gel trap. 
    I just tried 
    the cream is so good, absorbed quickly and no grease 
    after 5 minutes , my face looks normal without cream

  • em88

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 8:25 am

    I’ve red about geltrap. It is a combination of sepiplus and easynov.
    Since you tried already, what is the difference in the end result between using easynov alone and easynov+sepiplus? 

  • Dtdang

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 9:13 am

    the result is better in term of silky, smooth, spread and feel

  • Dtdang

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 9:15 am

    Only I concern about safety bc I don’t have safety records of this ingredient 

  • em88

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 9:49 am

    Dtdang said:

    Only I concern about safety bc I don’t have safety records of this ingredient 

    There is an article regarding Octyldodecyl Xyloside “Octyldodecyl xyloside: a novel contact allergen”

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 11:16 am

    I can’t find easinov but I have Sepiplus 400. It’s a good cold process emulsifier. I wouldn’t say that it can tolerate high amount of electrolytes as the manufacturer claims,  but it’s easy to use and give a very nice silicony afterfeel.

  • em88

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 11:43 am

    I don’t think you really need sepiplus for the geltrap. All the work is done by easynov. I think just by adding polyacrylate in the water phase should give the same result.
    I haven’t used sepiplus 400, but I’m pretty sure is just an other great product from seppic.  

  • EVchem

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 11:58 am

    Also use sepiplus 400, it’s not my favorite but that polyisobutene is supposed to give that rich silicone feel.  I recently used it as my only  emulsifier with ~7% oil  and added in oil phase and the end result looks a little greasy/gluey, but it does feel relatively nice and absorb quickly.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 1:47 pm

    @em88, do you have the link ?

  • Dtdang

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 1:59 pm

    @EVchem
    Try to use Caprylic Capric Triglycerides, It will improve the texture.

    @EM88
    I just try another small batch with only Sepiplus 400 and Caprylic Capric Triglycerides. Cream looks great.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 2:11 pm

    @EM88, after reading article, I will email to SEPPIC to ask the safety of Sepiplus 400. I like it because it works for small % amount of oils. It is great for eye cream.

  • Doreen

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 2:45 pm

    @em88
    You’re indeed not limited to Sepiplus 400 with Geltrap™, I’ll include a document from Seppic. File size is too large. :# Geltraps are always with Easynov, but next to Sepiplus 400, you can also combine with Sepinov EMT 10, Sepimax Zen, Sepinov P88 (and I’m sure polymers from other manufacturers can be used as well).

    I’ve made HIPe’s with Easynov, but still have to make a Geltrap™. As far as I know the only difference is in the process. Geltrap™ is oil to gel and HIPe is always water (or gel) to oilphase.
    I’ll also include a HIPe formula (the one Belinda Pilmore makes in the video on UL Prospector).
    I wasn’t that overwhelmed by a ‘wow- effect’ (the HIPe with Easynov) I must say. I expected more (maybe too much) of it somehow.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 3:11 pm

    @em88, Thanks. I agree with you 100%. Sepiplus 400 without Easynow is not geltrap. Actually, I will try Easynow for geltrap later this weekend.

    Thank you again em88.

  • em88

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 3:11 pm

    Dtdang said:

    @em88, do you have the link ?

    I believe you want the link for the article I mentioned?
    https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1600-0536.2011.01951.x
    Octyldodecyl Xyloside is part of easynov, not sepiplus 400.

    Dtdang said:

    @EM88
    I just try another small batch with only Sepiplus 400 and Caprylic Capric Triglycerides. Cream looks great.

    I’m sure about this and the sensorial effect should be even better. 

    Dtdang said:

    @EM88, after reading article, I will email to SEPPIC to ask the safety of Sepiplus 400. I like it because it works for small % amount of oils. It is great for eye cream.

    Sepiplus 400 can be used for making gels and o/w emulsions (creams). Indeed it will work for small amounts of oils. Glad to hear that you have great results. :)

  • em88

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 3:30 pm

    @Doreen, exactly! 
    From the Seppic channel regarding geltrap, the oil phase is added to the water/gel phase, while in the ulprospector video it is done the other way. Adding the oil phase to the water gel phase is easier to be done in the industrial scale

  • Doreen

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 4:30 pm

    @Dtdang
    You can also make Geltraps without Sepiplus 400. In a brochure of Seppic that I have (that unfortunately is too large to share here) they also mention the use of Sepinov EMT 10, Sepimax Zen, Sepinov P88 instead of Sepiplus 400. These are all Geltrap formulations.

    Edit, addition: So then it’s Easynov + Sepinov EMT 10, Easynov + Zen etc. (always with Easynov)

  • Microformulation

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 6:32 pm

    To be brutally honest, “gel traps” is a term rarely used in real Cosmetic Chemistry, In this case, it is a Seppic promoted term. I have even talked about this with the head of Technical at Seppic at a seminar.

  • Doreen

    Member
    January 25, 2019 at 9:46 pm

    @Microformulation
    Of course. It’s an obvious marketing term.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    January 26, 2019 at 12:59 am

    It seems that geltrap is working wel, isn’t it?

  • Dtdang

    Member
    January 26, 2019 at 1:00 am

    Wel (miss typing) : well

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