Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Honey Gel Mask

  • Honey Gel Mask

    Posted by Mrs_ditdut on December 9, 2018 at 12:02 am

    Hi everyone, I would
    like to seek your opinion about this formulation. So, I have made
    this simple hydrating gel mask using this formulation below:

    88.5% Distilled
    Water

    5% Glycerin

    2% Honey Extract

    1% Royal Jelly
    Extract

    0.5% Panthenol

    2% Xanthan Gum

    0.2% Sodium
    Gluconate

    0.8% Preservative

    And I recently
    received a raw honey as a gift, I was thinking to incorporate the raw
    honey into this gel mask. Is it possible ? As the raw honey is very
    very thick, how to dissolve it into this formulation ? Does anyone
    have experience using raw honey in formulating a product ?

    (As for this
    formulation, it works fine, just a bit tingling when I use them,
    don’t know why though T_T but it hydrates my skin quite well, so
    I’m pushing through.)

    Thank you so much :)

    Dr Catherine Pratt replied 5 years, 11 months ago 5 Members · 20 Replies
  • 20 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 9, 2018 at 12:47 am

    It’s hard to preserve. You need a good preservative.

  • Mrs_ditdut

    Member
    December 9, 2018 at 5:07 am

    It’s hard to preserve. You need a good preservative.

    That’s what I have in mind too, I’m using optiphen+ though, would it be enough ?  I’m thinking of using the raw honey at 2% for this formulation. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 9, 2018 at 8:05 am

    It looks ok overall. The only thing I would recommend, if you can find carbomer use it instead of xantham gum. If you don’t have carbomer, try 0.5% of xantham first. If too runny, make it 1. 2% sounds like too much. 

  • Mrs_ditdut

    Member
    December 9, 2018 at 12:19 pm

    It looks ok overall. The only thing I would recommend, if you can find carbomer use it instead of xantham gum. If you don’t have carbomer, try 0.5% of xantham first. If too runny, make it 1. 2% sounds like too much. 

    Thank you so much for the input, now that I look at my finished product, it is too thick, I guess I put waaaaay too much xanthan gum in it. 

    I haven’t use carbomer, but I can acquire it, however my supplier told me I need some sort of neutralizing agent to go with it, can you give me any suggestion if I decide to work with it ? 

    Thank you so much. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 9, 2018 at 7:22 pm

    You need triethanolamine (TEA) to neutralize carbomer. It is not expensive, easily accessible and easy to use. You can also use NaOH, but unless you are making soap and have it on hand I don’t recommend buying it. There are many types of carbomer, some of which do not need neutralization. Ask your supplier what they have. But any carbomer is better than xantham gum. Carbomer makes clear and bouncy gels.

  • Mrs_ditdut

    Member
    December 10, 2018 at 10:42 pm

    You need triethanolamine (TEA) to neutralize carbomer. It is not expensive, easily accessible and easy to use. You can also use NaOH, but unless you are making soap and have it on hand I don’t recommend buying it. There are many types of carbomer, some of which do not need neutralization. Ask your supplier what they have. But any carbomer is better than xantham gum. Carbomer makes clear and bouncy gels.

    Thank you for your input. I’m thinking of using carbomer now, my supplier has this one (Ultrez21) but that’s the only he has in stock as of now. And it does need neutralizing agent to work. 

    Since I’m making a gel mask, thick consistency, shall I start with the carbomer at 0.5% or jump straight to 1% ?

    And what do you think about dissolving the raw honey in the glycerin first before incorporating them to the formulation ? 

    Thank you :) 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 10, 2018 at 10:51 pm

    It should be a good one. I worked with another crosslinked polymer (same inci as ultrez 21). Make sure you let it hydrate before neutralising or you will end up with lumps. Leave it and don’t stirr, it doesn’t like high shear. Skip sodium gluconate, it might affect viscocity. Add TEA by drop (literally one drop, mix check pH, one more drop etc) and check pH until you are around 7 and it will thicken. Also you will get high viscocity at 0.5%. Try on water first.

  • Mrs_ditdut

    Member
    December 25, 2018 at 12:54 pm

    It should be a good one. I worked with another crosslinked polymer (same inci as ultrez 21). Make sure you let it hydrate before neutralising or you will end up with lumps. Leave it and don’t stirr, it doesn’t like high shear. Skip sodium gluconate, it might affect viscocity. Add TEA by drop (literally one drop, mix check pH, one more drop etc) and check pH until you are around 7 and it will thicken. Also you will get high viscocity at 0.5%. Try on water first.

    Thank you for the tips, it helps me a lot. 

    I haven’t made the actual formulation, I’m testing it on water as you suggest it. I learnt that the carbomer will thicken on pH 7, a very newbie question.. how do I lower the pH of the finished product ? using citric acid ?

    Happy holidays and thank you again for giving me your input.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 25, 2018 at 2:21 pm

    @Mrs_ditdut, get two dropper bottles for pH adjustment liquids. One should be 50% solution of citric acid (it will dissolve easily even in cold water) another for 18% NaOH solution. You can use triethanolamine (TEA) or NaOH. NaOH is cheaper, considered ‘natural’ and stronger. It’s the matter of preference which one you want to use to increase pH (I use TEA, because I formulate for myself and friends and don’t care about ‘natural’ label. Also they sell it in large packs and you don’t need a lot unless you are making soap). For decreasing, it’s always citric acid. I know that lactic acid is used sometimes but citric is the industry standard. Happy holidays!

  • Doreen

    Member
    December 27, 2018 at 9:22 am

    @ngarayeva001
    NaOH is considered ‘natural’?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    December 27, 2018 at 12:44 pm
    Sodium Hydroxide is allowed under the “natural standards” as a pH Modifier. The standards will not allow staples such as TEA.
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 27, 2018 at 10:08 pm

    Ecocert allows it as far as I am aware.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    December 28, 2018 at 1:15 am

    Also allowed under the COSMOS standard in Appendix IV I believe.

  • Doreen

    Member
    December 28, 2018 at 8:59 am

    Ok, thanks guys, didn’t know that! :+1:

  • Mrs_ditdut

    Member
    December 29, 2018 at 12:13 pm

    @Mrs_ditdut, get two dropper bottles for pH adjustment liquids. One should be 50% solution of citric acid (it will dissolve easily even in cold water) another for 18% NaOH solution. You can use triethanolamine (TEA) or NaOH. NaOH is cheaper, considered ‘natural’ and stronger. It’s the matter of preference which one you want to use to increase pH (I use TEA, because I formulate for myself and friends and don’t care about ‘natural’ label. Also they sell it in large packs and you don’t need a lot unless you are making soap). For decreasing, it’s always citric acid. I know that lactic acid is used sometimes but citric is the industry standard. Happy holidays!

    Thank you so much for your input :) it helps me a lot and I’m very grateful for that. 

  • Mrs_ditdut

    Member
    December 29, 2018 at 12:27 pm

    I’m facing a problem with incorporating honey (raw manuka honey) into this formulation. 

    Does anyone have experience in using honey in their product ? 

    How to dissolve it properly so i can add it into my water phase ? and do i need emulsifier for it ?

    Thank you. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 29, 2018 at 9:35 pm

    It is not an oil and you do not need an emulsifier. Honey should dissolve in water. What is the problem?

  • Dr Catherine Pratt

    Member
    December 30, 2018 at 1:25 am
    Yes honey dissolves in water and if your lucky you may end up making mead! but it also becomes food for yeasts and microbes. Honey on its own is full of phenolics etc which I believe keep it preserved in its natural state.
    Maybe add the raw honey at the end of the formulation when the last phase has cooled to the same as the honey temp. Then mix is through?
  • Doreen

    Member
    January 1, 2019 at 4:46 pm

    Yes honey dissolves in water and if your lucky you may end up making mead! but it also becomes food for yeasts and microbes. Honey on its own is full of phenolics etc which I believe keep it preserved in its natural state.
    Maybe add the raw honey at the end of the formulation when the last phase has cooled to the same as the honey temp. Then mix is through?

    Agreed. Only if it’s used pure at 100% (and untreated). Once dilluted it’s a source of contamination.

  • Dr Catherine Pratt

    Member
    January 2, 2019 at 1:03 pm

    Exactly!

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