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Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate reduces viscosity of cream
Hi All,
I added 2% of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate to a formula (o/w cream) that worked pretty well previously. It caused a significant decrease of viscosity. The viscosity modifier is Aristoflex AVC. Has anyone worked with this vitamin C derivative? If yes, could you advise a replacement for Aristoflex? The reason why I am asking instead of experimenting is that it costed me around $100 for ounce (it’s around $50 plus delivery and customs) and I don’t want to waste it. I don’t post the formula because the only variable is the vitamin C, and I know that Aristoflex tends to lose viscocity in presence of actives.
Thank you in advance!
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5 Replies
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Anyone worked with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate?
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I have no familiarity with that thickener, but I’ve used tetrahexadecyl ascorbate before. When you say “worked pretty well before”, you’re talking about the cream on it’s own right?
The thickener I’ve used with tetrahexadceyl ascorbate is: Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (and) Trideceth-6. I’m trying to get away from that now because the mineral oil is no longer customer-friendly. What alternative thickeners are you thinking of trying? -
Thank you @EVchem, so I formulated a cream with retinol liposomes and ceramides. It is thick, cushiony, with long playtime, absorbs easily, and it has that “expensive” feel. I wanted to add tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate to this existing formula (not to the ready product, I made it again and incorporated the vit c), but it completely destroyed the texture. I would say that in general Aristoflex AVC is hard to work with. It doesn’t tolerate electrolytes and many active ingredients (but if you keep the LOI basic it gives a great texture). I am considering Sepinov EMT, but it can be demanding as well. I have Sepiplus 400, GelMaker EMU (by makingcosmetics) and I recently bought Emulthix (Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Dimethicone (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trideceth-6 (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone), but I can’t find my way around this one yet. The working formula (without vitamin c) is as follows:
Phase INCI % A Aqua 63.30% A Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10% A Glycerine 1.00% A Ceramide and
cholesterol6.00% A Magnesium Ascorbyl
Phosphate3.00% A Butylene Glycol 2.00% A Propanediol 2.00% B Squalane 2.00% B Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 1.00% B Butyrospermum parkii butter 2.00% B Simmondsia Chinesis Seed Oil 2.00% B Dimethicone 3.00% B Cetyl Alcohol 2.00% B Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00% B Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20% B Tocopherol 0.75% B Sorbitan Oleate 1.00% B Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100
Stearate3.00% B Aristoflex AVC 0.75% C Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide - 7 0.50% C Retinol 2.00% C Resveratrol 0.10% C Bisabolol 0.20% C Sodium
Carbomer0.10% C Paraben DU/or phenoxy 1.00% -
I imagine the sepiplus would work, I have that and the tetrahexadecyl, I can let you know if I see any issues in a very simple formula, but not sure how that would compare against what you’re doing
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Thank you @EVchem. I will try to run a tiny batch with sepiplus.
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