Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General URprospector video: concentration and No extra preservatives

  • URprospector video: concentration and No extra preservatives

    Posted by PharmaSpain on August 10, 2018 at 7:19 pm

    Hi everyone, it has been a while but having a full-time startup lets me almost no free time to read formulation posts. I wish that will change some day :S

    I receive a video from ULprospector talking about customized products

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqB-vh-ijw

    2 question came to my mind:

    1- the used active ingredients concentrations are really high in the actives formulation. Are they risky? are they legal in US? Here at the EU most of the cosmetic active ingredients have no limitation (even retinol has only a RECOMMENDATION of a maximum of 0.3%)

    For example, the second active ingredient (liftoning perfect) shows in their data sheet patch test at 20%, but she used a 50% concentration… Did her their own test? I doubt it

    2- She talks about preservation here at 6:42:

    https://youtu.be/bqB-vh-ijw?t=6m42s

    Belinda says that no more preservatives are needed. What is the reason behind this?
    I mean, no adding extra water to a well-preserved product could be the answer but my doubt is: this is 100% sure?

    Regards from Spain

    Sibech replied 6 years, 1 month ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Sibech

    Member
    August 10, 2018 at 7:37 pm

    1) There is no blanket answer to cover possible risks, it really depends on the chemicals you choose.

    2) The reason no preservatives are needed in the customization concentrates is simply due to a lack of water. the water activity is actually reduced in the concentrates compared to the raw materials. No water no microbes (generally speaking). - The cream-base would still be in need of preservation. 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    August 13, 2018 at 12:41 pm

    I agree with @Sibech - I would add.

    1.  There is no prescribed legal limit on cosmetic ingredients. But there is a law that it is illegal to sell unsafe products. You have to be able to prove that the product you are selling is demonstrated to be safe under expected use conditions. Usually, this means limiting your concentration to the level as suggested by the CIR.

    2.  I’m not sure I agree with her assertions that you should consider the consumer when deciding whether to put more preservative in the system or not. The most important consideration is whether the product will be safe or not. In this case, since there isn’t any water in the concentrates, I agree that extra preservation probably isn’t required.

    In general, I don’t like this notion of encouraging people to customize their beauty products in this way. It seems way too easy for something to go wrong.

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