Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Turing my Water Based Pomade to an Unorthodox Styling Clay

  • Turing my Water Based Pomade to an Unorthodox Styling Clay

    Posted by gnomebeard on June 21, 2018 at 6:11 am

    I am thinking of turning my regular pomade into a styling clay.  Reason being is my regular pomade turned out a tad bit oily and not nearly enough hold.  Thinking of adding PVP to increase the hold. 

    As for turning this into a “clay”…not sure how much clay to add and at what stage.  Also wanted to add a few more ingredients to the recipe.  The ingredients with the ??? are obviously the new items I am adding.  I just don’t know how much to add.  Also, what are your thoughts on these ingredients? 
    I use Liquid Germall Plus since it is a broad spectrum preservative.  I use .5% of LGP.

    Water Part

    Water:  50g

    VG:  10g

    Oil Part

    E Wax  8g

    Stearic Acid:  3 grams

    Avocado Oil:  10g

    Olive Oil:  8g

    Coconut Oil:  4g

    Jojoba Oil:  5g

    Mango Butter:  6g

    Beeswax:  7g

    Microcrystalline Wax:  3g

    Kaolin Clay:  4 grams?? 

    PVP:  ???

    PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil:  ???

    PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate:  ???

    Dirtnap1 replied 6 years, 7 months ago 2 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Dirtnap1

    Member
    June 21, 2018 at 4:44 pm

    Pre wet clay. Break up into multiple water phases. Ex Phase A 45g water
    Phase B 5g water/4g clay etc.

    Clay does not mix with oil. It will sit at the bottom of your vessel/clump so you need to incorporate with a blender into water phase. Once emulsified with all phases continue to mix to disperse clay until it cools enough.

    10% VG seems a bit high for a humectant. May be your reason your formula seemed greasy and not holding.

  • gnomebeard

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 3:12 am

    How much percentage of clay do you think I should add?  I am thinking about adding 4 grams of PEG 40 Hydro Castor Oil and 5 grams of PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate

  • Dirtnap1

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 4:50 pm

    There’s no saying. You will have to play with it and experiment. Iv’e been in development of a couple matte products myself and they are a little tricky to get right.
    Peg 7 Glyc Coco is a bit expensive, so I would cut that in half at least. But really depends on the formula and how it feels to you. 
    The more PVP you use, the more the product will flake. I use 1.5% max in my formulas. 
    Peg 8 beeswax can be used for a fixative/thickener. There are also many different fixatives on the market VP/VA, PVP/VA and products from companies like Lubrizol if you have a rep for them in your area.

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