Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Polymers and Penetration

  • Polymers and Penetration

    Posted by bigdave on June 6, 2018 at 3:51 pm

    Hi Everyone.

    I have been experimenting with various “natural” polymers (HEC, Xanthan, Alginate, Konjac, HLA, etc) to create a serum / gel product. As you know, some result in much greater viscosity than others when hydrated, and some have greater film-forming, or surface tension properties. My question is this: Does the lower viscosity polymer allow for greater skin penetration? I have experimented with some mushroom polymers that have high viscosity, but the superficial film is barely noticeable.

    So what properties in the polymer do I take into account when considering the delivery of actives?

    Thanks for any help!

    David

    bigdave replied 6 years, 10 months ago 4 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • jeremien

    Member
    June 7, 2018 at 9:30 am

    In my oppinion, polymer, by there size will not help for skin penetration. Even if if the lower viscosity polymer have lower Mw, it is still too large to penetrate the SC

  • beautynerd

    Member
    June 7, 2018 at 6:12 pm

    Which mushroom polymers did you experiment with?

  • bigdave

    Member
    June 25, 2018 at 3:46 am

    EliseCortes:

    I have used Tremella and Sclerotium. Tremella can almost match Carbomer in viscosity, but leaves a very thin, non-tensile film. Sclerotium, is the same, with a little more tensile feel.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 26, 2018 at 4:28 pm

    I agree with @jeremien - a polymer no matter how small probably wont help with penetration

  • bigdave

    Member
    June 26, 2018 at 5:00 pm

    Thanks for all the input folks!

    I guess my question wasn’t clear. Can the MW of the polymer play a role in the stopping the ACTIVE from penetrating, not the polymer itself?

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