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Sucragel CF questions
Hello,
I’ve recently bought Sucragel CF and have some questions about it.1. The INCI of this product is : Glycerin & Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides & Aqua & Sucrose Laurate
My plan is to use Sucragel in anhydrous products as it gives less greasy feeling, nice consistency and less shine on the skin. I’ve already made some formulations with it and I am very pleased with the results. The thing is that water is one of the ingredients, but there is no perservative. I found that Sucragel AOF contains 1-5% of water, so I assume it may be similar with CF version. If I use it in anhydrous product should I use perservative? There is a formulation guide for Sucragel products (http://www.in-cosmetics.com/__novadocuments/80219?v=635629737972730000) and they don’t propose any perservative system in products like oily gels and butters.
2. I tried to find info about safety of sucrose laurate. It is a direct food additive as listed by FDA. In CIR review (http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/sacest032016slr.pdf) sucrose laurate is listed as safe ingredient to use in cosmetics but in toxicokinetics part there is an info that it’s dermal penetration enhancer for some drugs like oestradiol, ibuprofen.
My questions is if I make solid perfumes with essential oils and concentrations of those are quite high but still on safe level (if we look at IFRA guidelines and Tisserand & Young “Essential Oils Safety Book”) than can i use sucragel as one of main ingredients? Essential oils contains allergens so is something labelled as skin penetration enhacer may cause any additional problems here?
Thanks!
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5 Replies
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As the water is in the dispersed phase, and present in a low concentration, this probably accounts for the lack of proposed preservative by the manufacturer. It’s also worth noting that sucrose (mono)laurate is inherently bacteriostatic.
Many cosmetic ingredients alter the SC lipids and act as penetration enhancers, including the manifold components of essential oils. I think the only absolute way you can determine the assumed extent of dermal penetration is by consulting with a safety assessor or toxicologist once you have finalized your essential oil quantity and quality.
In any event, you should ensure the product has a robust antioxidant system and suitable packaging, as oxidized essential oil constituents are contact allergens, and can ruin the appearance and odour of your perfume.
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@bigziom, all raw materials/ ingredients have preservative system incorporated within, the manufacturer/ supplier won’t mention it unless you specifically request for that kind of details.
Try to ask your supplier he/she might know better. -
Thank you very much for the answers!
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If you have a concern, you can always add some glyceryl caprylate (and) glyceryl undecylenate … it’s an oil-soluble preservative.
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Keep in mind that it cnbe a tricky little material to work with. Read all the Technical documents and in an anhydrous product it may require high, high shear.
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