Discoloration of Face Wash - Chemists Corner

Formulating

Discoloration of Face Wash

Posted by Shujah on July 19, 2017 at 5:28 am

Hello All
I am facing problem with Face Wash it orignal color is pearl white at start of the formulation but when stored at stability at high temperature its color changes and turns into off white or beige color kindly guide me what to do to stop this color change ingredients of face wash is as follows

Disodium EDTA

Glycol Disterrate

Ammonium Laureth sulphate

DI Water

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate

Sodium lauryl Glutamate

PEG -120 Methyl glucose dioleate

SODOUM HYALURONATE)

PROPYLENE GLYCOL

Polyquartenium 7

GLUCOSE

Hydroxy propyl methyl cellulose

Titanium dioxide

Glycerine

Vitamin B3

Tocopheryl Acetate

Perfume

DM DM Hydantoin

Sodium chloride

DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ replied 7 years, 9 months ago 6 Members · 18 Replies
18 Replies

DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

Member
July 19, 2017 at 9:23 pm

The VE acetete is not preventing oxidation so first try 0.2% BHT.But sucrose may be reacting with glutamate (amine portion) causing Mallard reaction and browning just like roasting a turkey and if so you have to delete one or the other sucrose?? Also check RT samples as Mallard reaction does not need a catalyst:however heat accelerates it.
belassi

Member
July 19, 2017 at 11:01 pm

Yes, why glucose?
Shujah

Member
July 20, 2017 at 4:33 am

glucose is effective moisturizer thats why i am using it in this formulation
as the formulation contain high level of surfactant
belassi

Member
July 20, 2017 at 4:50 am

That’s the first I’ve heard about glucose being a moisturiser. In fact I cannot find any reliable information that that is so.
Shujah

Member
July 20, 2017 at 4:58 am

I am using liquid glucose
OldPerry

Professional Chemist / Formulator
July 20, 2017 at 11:14 pm

Lots of things could be causing the problem but most likely is the fragrance (perfume). Did you do a stability test on the formula without the fragrance?

Solution to this is to get help from your fragrance supplier. At least that’s what we always did. They would reformulate the fragrance to fix the problem.

The Glucose hypothesis sounds reasonable too. Test the formula without glucose too.
Shujah

Member
July 21, 2017 at 4:55 am

Thanks perry Stability without perfume has been tested i will try to make the sample without glucose
Doreen

Member
July 21, 2017 at 7:36 am

@DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
But sucrose may be reacting with glutamate (amine portion) causing Mallard reaction and browning just like roasting a turkey and if so you have to delete one or the other sucrose?? Also check RT samples as Mallard reaction does not need a catalyst:however heat accelerates it.

Just like my vitamin C serum: reducing sugar (l-ascorbic acid) + amine portion (like l-tyrosine etc in skin) + a bit of skin warmth as catalyst? = a slight orange/brown skin discoloration + metallic smell: Maillard reaction! Thanks to @johnb I finally figured out what so many of us with a high % vitamin C (15-20%) product are experiencing! Nasty smell and discoloration.
The serum itself wasn’t changing colour, because there were no amino acids in it, but it obviously started reacting with amino acids in the skin!
DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

Member
July 21, 2017 at 3:48 pm

You are right Mallard reaction takes place in skin without a catalyst forming advance glycation products (AGEs) causing browning.People with Diabetes and high sugar levels in skin have problem as the latter reacts with protein.One way to reverse it is to use L Carnosine.
belassi

Member
July 21, 2017 at 5:12 pm

I’m not sure that it will help, but 1% trehalose stops decomposition of skin fatty acids eg palmitic acid. It is increasingly found in cosmetics these days.
zaidjeber

Member
July 24, 2017 at 6:32 am

@Doreen81 Maillard reaction is non-enzymatic reaction (doesn’t need a catalyst), although, high pH accelerates the reaction/ browning discoloration.
Now my question is: do all skin care products that contain Vitamin C do have this browning discoloration effect on the skin or not? if not then why?
Doreen

Member
July 24, 2017 at 6:42 pm

@zaidjeber
It only happens with l-ascorbic acid, not with the esters. It’s also %-dependent (from 15 to 20%), whether it’s an expensive brand or self-made. Many people think they’re dealing with an oxidized product, but the serum itself shows no discoloration or weird smell.
DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

Member
July 24, 2017 at 11:11 pm

Doreen THe pathways of VC leading to Mallard reaction are poorly understood particularly in skin.Other body organs higher in VC are well defined so concentration is an important factor which is in line with your observations.
Doreen

Member
July 25, 2017 at 5:28 am

@DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
It’s strange though… a lot of studies about ascorbic acid in skin, but hardly any information on this.
I can’t imagine it hasn’t been noticed when they did their double blind researches on collagen synthesis etc.
Edit: It has been noticed. I see L’Oreal has even asked a patent on dehydroascorbic acid for use as a self-tanner. A ‘new DHA’, but the same horrid smell.
zaidjeber

Member
July 25, 2017 at 5:47 am

Thanks @Doreen81 for the clarification and for the patent link
DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

Member
July 25, 2017 at 2:40 pm

Makes sense at least in theory as dehydroascorbic acid had been linked to non-oxidative breakdown products of ascorbic acid with eventual result being erythrulose.The latter has been used in conjunction with DHA for tanning.

http://www.jbc.org/content/early/2011/08/31/jbc.M111.245100.full.pdf
Doreen

Member
July 25, 2017 at 8:01 pm

@zaidjeber
You’re welcome!

@DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
Interesting article, thanks!
I don’t know what happened with the L’Oreal patent request from 2010. I’ve been reading some LOI’s on their self-tanners, but haven’t found dehydroascorbic acid or a derivative so far…
DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

Member
July 25, 2017 at 9:18 pm

@Doreen81 I would think it would take a long time to come out with a product based on that technology/patent.