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Advice on an oil in water Antioxidant serum
I have been searching unsuccessfully for vitamin C serum to use under sunscreen. L-Ascorbic Acid serums have proven to be too too much for my sensitive skin. My preferred C derivative would be tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate but all the formulations to be found are either oil or silicone based which do not agree with my skin either, MAP formulations tend to be a higher pH, I prefer my cosmetics to be a more skin sympathetic pH (around 4.7 - 5)
Some years ago an online friend used to make me an emulsified tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate serum with a serum/gel base which was absolutely perfect for me but unfortunately I have been unable to get back in contact with her. Thusly I am looking to prepare my own formulation and would be most appreciative for some guidance.
I am thinking of a formulation that would include tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate at around 10%, 1% tocopherol and a host of other antioxidants (was thinking perhaps coffee berry extract, pomegranate extract, CQ10, Lycopene, Astaxanthin, ferulic acid?) The base would be water, perhaps some glycerine and a emulsifier/gelling agent of some sort.
I’m not sure what would be effective, gentle and assist in giving it a slightly thickened, serum-like texture and work with my end pH of 4.7-5, as well as aid in penetration. A polysorbate perhaps? Any ideas would be much appreciated.
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7 Replies
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You are requesting development work for a new product. This normally demands a fee.
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You’re quite right. I read it over just now and realised that
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One problem you would have with your proposed formula is that at 10% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate you are going to need such a large volume of solubilizer that it really would not be feasible. If you want to include that much Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate you’d have to make a cream. FYI: All of the studies I have seen by the manufacturer of THA have been at 3%. This is not like Ascorbic Acid where you get optimum results at 17%. More is not necessarily better.
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You might consider testing some of the silicone elastomer gels on your skin.
If they don’t irritate, they are remarkably easy to formulate with, so they’d be a much better choice for this type of project, as long as you’re willing to give up most of the bells and whistles you asked for.
“Serums” are notoriously difficult to get the right viscosity and still keep stable.
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Thank you guys, very helpful
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Just sniffing around the web and wondering if Plantamulse would be an option? I’m not familiar with it but it seems that some companies use it for water/oil emulsions. For example:
http://www.gardenofwisdom.com/catalog/item/7012656/7422491.htm
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Can no longer edit the above but was also wondering about lecithin as an emulsifier?
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