Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Trustworthy concoction?

  • Trustworthy concoction?

    Posted by cremedevanille on February 26, 2017 at 3:09 pm

    I have tricky skin and find this an extremely soothing topical. Its not cheap but I’ve had issue finding anything similar. My concern is the formula, this is everything included. Green tea with no chelator and what looks like a rather lacking preservation system. What are your thoughts formulators? Could this formula quickly become a pro-oxidant to the skin? I’ll give the company the benefit of the doubt in that its created in a highly sterile lab environment (so if fridge kept and used up fast perhaps one does not need to fret too much about bugs. Pinch of salt, and all.) However, it’s lack of chelators lead to my concern that it may turn into a pro oxidant formula. I look forward to hearing your thoughts and thank you all for teaching me so very much!

    https://www.marieveronique.com/collections/best-sellers/products/soothing-complex

    Camellia sinensis (Green tea) extract, sodium hyaluronate, niacinamide (vitamin B3), D-panthenol (pro-Vitamin B5), sodium salicylate, n-acetyl glucosamine, Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (ECGC), gluco-nolactone, polygonum aviculare extract (knotweed bioflavonoids), daucus carota sativa (carrot) root extract, Beta-glucan, galacto-oligiosaccharide, bacillus ferment, leuconostoc/ radish root filtrate ferment, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract

    johnb replied 7 years, 6 months ago 4 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • johnb

    Member
    February 26, 2017 at 3:40 pm

    Seems to me to be a thrown together mix of trendy ingredients.

    I wonder how much rational thought went into formulating this concoction?

    Edit: I’ve just looked at your link and seen the price $90 for 30ml! I’m going for a lie down.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    February 26, 2017 at 6:09 pm

    water not listed but coming in through extracts so does need a preservative::naturals likely to discolor on aging so edta may help but amine functional extracts(glucosamine) WILL REACT VIA mallard reaction leading to discoloration

  • cremedevanille

    Member
    February 26, 2017 at 6:19 pm

    John I think you hit the nail on the head with the term trendy! Yes, its a ‘hope eco line’. The whole “greenwashing” saga is a shame as it has lead to a myriad of products which could be so much better if the formulas were complete. 

    I suppose the bottom line, wild price tag aside, is that this essentially isn’t the safest stuff to be putting on one’s skin?

  • johnb

    Member
    February 26, 2017 at 6:51 pm

    Regarding a preservative system, the leuconostoc/ radish root filtrate ferment (should be leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate) is supposed to be a “natural” preservative commercial name is Leucidal Liquid. I am not convinced of its action as a preservative.

    It could be considered that the sodium salicylate/gluconolactone mix acts as a preservative in a similar way to sodium benzoate/gluconolactone combinations (Geogard Ultra).

  • cremedevanille

    Member
    February 26, 2017 at 8:02 pm

    Ah, that makes sense John. I agree, leucidal is not a suitable preservative. I know some companies are using it with its sister product Coconut Amticide now (which is what I do in my own DIY mixture for ease but, then again, I use it up quickly and refrigerate it.) 

    I’m happy to pay the (I know, VERY overinflated) price for this product simply because my skin is hugely settled by it when so many other products simply irritate it. My greatest concern about this formula is the potential for it to turn into a pro oxidant on the skin due to the use of green tea and lack of a chelating agent. Preservative system aside, would you say there is any reason for concern on this front or am I over thinking it? Kind thanks for your insight. 

  • cremedevanille

    Member
    February 26, 2017 at 8:21 pm

    Actually I think I’ve answered my own question… the gluconolactone acts as the chelator which binds heavy metals and scavenges any free radicals! 

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    February 26, 2017 at 10:50 pm

    besides any obvious preservatives, water is also missing from that list, and all of the other ingredients are water-soluble; with that in mind, I’d suggest taking it with a very big pinch of salt

  • johnb

    Member
    February 27, 2017 at 7:40 am

    I think the apparent absence of water is accounted for by the “Camellia sinensis (Green tea) extract”. I prepare extracts of this (and of fermented {brown} tea) several times a day, every day. I then drink it!

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