Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Advanced Questions Polyglyceryl ester emulsifier preferences

  • Polyglyceryl ester emulsifier preferences

    Posted by chemicalmatt on January 31, 2017 at 4:24 pm

    To the veteran formulators out there, and you know who you are, here’s a query.  Given the vogue of using alkyl substituted polygyceryl esters as primary o/w emulsifiers - instead of the cheaper, better, but “scarier” ethoxylated ones - which have you had the most success with in emulsifying polar oils, such as veg/botanical triglycerides?  There are varying degrees of alkyl substitution creating varying, and in my opinion nebulous,  HLB values stated by suppliers.  Most veg oils are in the HLB range of 7.  What poly-gly emulsifier have you used, and what oil load was emulsified successfully? DO NOT tell me to try using the glucoside esters loved by the Skin Deep and Lotioncrafters crowd; frankly, they suck without using co-emulsifiers or stabilizing resins, and are over-priced, which even their manufacturers admit to. I purchase chemicals on the industrial scale, so feel free to cite manufacturers/distributors (NA).

    MakingSkincare replied 7 years, 10 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • johnb

    Member
    January 31, 2017 at 4:32 pm

    If you count me amongst your veteran formulators, I’m afraid I’m too veteran to have used these wonder products. :)

  • MakingSkincare

    Member
    February 3, 2017 at 7:28 pm
    If you’re looking for DIY homecraft resellers: Natragem EW contains a polyglyceryl (Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate) and is sold by Penny Lane Organics (Original supplier: Croda). I have found it to be a stable, easy to use, “natural” emulsifier blend. 
    If you aren’t bound by DIY suppliers Evonik sell some nice polyglyceryl esters, as does Gattefosse.  Do send me a private message and I’ll recommend some.  
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 3, 2017 at 10:38 pm

    Jane, I know where to buy these surfactants. That is not the issue.  As I stated, I am an industrial user, and know Evonik, Protameen, Gattefosse, Lubrizol, Croda, etc., etc. very well. My query regarded anyone’s real-time results from their use in o/w emulsions where the main oil load is polar, e.g. jojoba oil, olive oil, branched esters…so, do you have any experience in this regard that you can share?

  • MakingSkincare

    Member
    February 3, 2017 at 10:57 pm

    Yes Matt, all the ones I mentioned above were stable with common vegetable oils.

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