pre-shave cream - Chemists Corner

Formulating

pre-shave cream

Posted by NILDACOSTA26 on January 1, 2017 at 12:19 pm

I’m trying to reproduce a formulation of a pré-baarba custard.

However, the final look is different, although with same ingredients

the original cream has appearance of a shaving cream but not foam.
main ingredients: stearic acid, sorbitol, glycerin, camphor, potassium hydroxide, ceteary alcohol.Can someone help me?

NILDACOSTA26 replied 8 years, 1 month ago 5 Members · 22 Replies
22 Replies

johnb

Member
January 1, 2017 at 2:06 pm

This type of shave cream is basically similar to the traditional cold cream.

What is your formula?
johnb

Member
January 1, 2017 at 3:19 pm

I apologise, please ignore my previous post here.
I should have said similar to traditional vanishing cream.
The final appearance and texture does not develop immediately - it may take several weeks for that to occur.

What is the formula you are using?

NILDACOSTA26

Member

January 31, 2017 at 7:13 pm

Hello, thank you very much for help me.
I used this formulation. Best Regards,

Stearic
Acid

12.5

Cetyl
alcohol

Glycerol

Potassium
hydroxide

Propyl
Paraben

0.025

Methyl
Paraben

0.05

Mento/canfhor…

Purified
water

29.34

johnb

Member
February 2, 2017 at 8:39 am

That formulation approximates quite well with the formulae I am familiar with. You might wish to increase the potassium hydroxide slightly but, if you’re happy with the product you have made, good!
NILDACOSTA26

Member
February 2, 2017 at 11:15 am

Dear Mr John, thank you again and thanks for giving a little of your time

You can, please help me just a little more?

The cream that bought the Proraso (PRE SHAVE CREAM) has a Pearlescent appearance,

but the formula has nothing showing. Why does he keep looking like this? What percentage of soda I can use in this type of cream?
Best Regards, Nilda Potter.
johnb

Member
February 2, 2017 at 11:59 am

The pearlescence and correct texture appear only after several weeks of storage. When I was involved in the commercial production of this product type it would take a month to six weeks post manufacture before it was released for sale.

Regarding the inclusion of soda (NaOH). This material stiffens the product so something to be sold in a jar may require NaOH whereas tube products do not.
ashish

Member
February 2, 2017 at 1:06 pm

You will get pearliness on second day or instant if you use 2 to 3% of acrylate copolymer but for light weight cream, need to reduce % of glycerin. To reduce soapy effect due to sodium stearate, dimethicone can be added, if required.
NILDACOSTA26

Member
February 2, 2017 at 1:17 pm
NILDACOSTA26

Member
February 2, 2017 at 4:09 pm

Mr John, i will make again with 0,5% Potassium hydroxide and 15% stearic acid
por jars cream. Do you think 0,5% is is much Potassium by your great experience? ? Best Regards NP
johnb

Member
February 2, 2017 at 4:44 pm

I doubt that reducing the potassium hydroxide will achieve anything positive. The secret is to be patient and allow time for the crystallisation of the stearic acid to take place.

One thing to make sure of is to have a high quality stearic acid if there is much unsaturated acid(s) - oleic acid for instance - the pearling effect will be inhibited or prevented completely.
NILDACOSTA26

Member
February 2, 2017 at 7:31 pm

Thank you sr. for help me!!
Bobzchemist

Member
February 2, 2017 at 8:15 pm

Some of the “Stearic Acid” sold commercially has significant amounts of palmitic acid, as well. If you can, try for 95% or greater C18.
NILDACOSTA26

Member
February 3, 2017 at 11:49 am

Dear Bob, thanks for help me too. Please, I know these:
Stearic Acid vegetable, Double and triple pressure. Can you suggest any known brand that sells the good stearic acid Basf, Lubrizol, ….?
Thanks for caring about my question! .

I’ll aproveitr your time a little to ask a question.

You know inform where I find formula of shaving soap ( comercial type) bar with ingredients:

Sodium Tallowate, Potassium Stearate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Stearate, Aqua, Potassium Cocoate, Glycerin, Parfum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Lanolin, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Silicate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Magnesium Sulphate, Tetrasodium Etidronate
johnb

Member
February 3, 2017 at 2:11 pm

It is not feasible to manufacture hard shaving soap yourself. It requires specialist equipment both to make the soap and to form it into bars/sticks for consumer use.

A specialist soap finisher should be able perform these things for you.

Regarding stearic acid for shaving cream, the grade termed triple pressed is suitable.
NILDACOSTA26

Member
February 3, 2017 at 2:11 pm

Dear Bob, I sought and found Stearic Acid C18 98/100 - vegetable (Palm Oil).
do you think I produce with this acid will have final product better?
best Regads, NP
johnb

Member
February 3, 2017 at 2:12 pm

I feel I am wasting my time.
Bobzchemist

Member
February 3, 2017 at 2:35 pm

Try it and see.
OldPerry

Professional Chemist / Formulator
February 3, 2017 at 2:46 pm

@johnb - Some people just have to try things to prove it to themselves that it won’t work. Please don’t be discouraged.
NILDACOSTA26

Member
February 3, 2017 at 4:04 pm

Dear John, in my country no one specialist shaving soap fabric. I contact any, but not.

i have SOAP bar extruder, I buy noodle for toilet SOAP, but no industry produces the noodle to shaving soap, where it is easily found

like France, England, Germany and others. Thanks for replying!
NILDACOSTA26

Member
February 3, 2017 at 4:12 pm

Dear Perry, I’m not discouraged. On the contrary, the difficulty is what motivates. Because I know that in some

place or someone will give me a solution. Just look.
johnb

Member
February 4, 2017 at 9:52 am

I don’t know your whereabouts but, I am still doubtful that it is practical to make this yourself.

A supplier of a vegetable based shaving soap is http://www.stephensonpersonalcare.com/products/opal-vss
NILDACOSTA26

Member
February 4, 2017 at 11:41 am

Thank you Mr John!