Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Is DL-Panthenol heat sensitive?

  • Is DL-Panthenol heat sensitive?

    Posted by bggy on October 1, 2016 at 5:23 pm

    Hello chemists, according to ingredientstodiefor tech support panthenol is not heat sensitive:

    “Panthenol is not heat sensitive however, it won’t perform or solubilize well in oils.  It is water soluble.”

    However, I have come across some info indicating that heat above 70 C can degrade panthenol:

    http://www.skinident.es/fileadmin/img/spanish-pictures/pdf/BASF_Panthenol.pdf

    In the ‘stability and storage’ section:

    Panthenol is stable at room temperature. It is stable against light and air but not heat. Heat (above 70°C) can cause racemization to D-Panthenol and cleavage to aminopropanol and pantolacton for D- and DL-Panthenol

    I would like to include DL-Panthenol in a conditioner bar which is heated above 70 C to melt the ingredients. Adding panthenol while it cools down is difficult because the conditioner begins to solidify. Although the conditioner bar contains only oil-phase ingredients, if the panthenol is not degraded, rubbing the bar with wet hair would seem to provide the water required to put panthenol in solution.

    Does anyone know if adding panthenol above 70 C would destroy/reduce its lustre and strengthening properties?

    http://www.ingredientstodiefor.com/item/DL_Panthenol_100/173

    Thank you!,

    John

    belassi replied 8 years, 4 months ago 5 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    October 1, 2016 at 6:17 pm

    Since it is insoluble in oils, why are you adding it? I can’t see the combination working. Tocopherol would be a better choice, I believe.

  • bggy

    Member
    October 1, 2016 at 6:31 pm

    I like the lustre and strengthening properties and would like to provide these in the bar.

    When I add it to the oil phase (mostly BTMS, cetyl alcohol) it disperses so that no grains are visible. I’m thinking the water will solubilize the panthenol as it is applied to wet hair.

  • belassi

    Member
    October 1, 2016 at 8:12 pm

    Isn’t BTMS an emulsifier? You didn’t say you had an emulsifier in there.

  • bggy

    Member
    October 2, 2016 at 3:40 am

    Yes, I should have been more specific

    OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 5, 2016 at 1:35 am

    You would have to be able to show that when the ingredient is added to the conditioner it has any effect on luster and hair strength. If you can’t show with or without it has an effect, then it doesn’t much matter if it is heat sensitive or not.

  • kot

    Member
    November 6, 2016 at 4:52 pm

    Thanks Perry, but question is not answered, can Panthenol be heated?
    Which information in bggy post regarding heating is correct?
    Thanks.

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 7, 2016 at 1:02 am

    For safety and stability reasons you should never add ingredients that may breakdown into other substances in cosmetic products. Whether this will happen or not in your case is hard to say without performing a series of experiments. I would recommend looking for a substitute.

  • belassi

    Member
    November 7, 2016 at 1:11 am

    It is supposed to be stable to 70C but I very much doubt that your melted oils etc are anywhere near as low as that. David is correct.

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